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Topic Title: Looking to get into big wave surfing
Topic Summary: Sounds like a stay-cation on the north shore is the ticket
Created On: 01/21/2018 04:51 PM
Linear : Threading : Single : Branch
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 01/21/2018 04:51 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - fishkller - 01/21/2018 06:03 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - surferclimber - 01/21/2018 07:48 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - miker - 01/22/2018 07:04 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Cole - 01/22/2018 07:15 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 01/22/2018 07:16 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - monsoon - 01/22/2018 07:26 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - monsoon - 01/22/2018 07:28 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - monsoon - 01/22/2018 07:28 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - monsoon - 01/22/2018 07:28 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - monsoon - 01/22/2018 07:29 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 01/22/2018 09:08 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 01/22/2018 09:20 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - CERTON - 01/22/2018 08:27 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - stokedpanda - 01/22/2018 09:03 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 01/22/2018 09:12 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - artz - 01/22/2018 10:49 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 01/22/2018 10:57 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - SurfCaster - 01/22/2018 12:07 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Sparky - 01/22/2018 02:12 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - MyCatSprays - 01/24/2018 07:31 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - jettyparksurfer - 01/25/2018 02:30 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - SurferMic - 01/25/2018 03:28 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - SurferMic - 01/26/2018 08:42 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 01/26/2018 08:53 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Sector9surf - 01/28/2018 08:23 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 01/22/2018 03:23 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - ww - 01/22/2018 10:33 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 01/23/2018 08:20 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 01/23/2018 09:39 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Zeus - 01/23/2018 02:01 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - dropsolo - 01/23/2018 06:39 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - daner - 01/23/2018 02:08 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - larenyon - 01/23/2018 08:15 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - RiddleMe - 01/24/2018 03:52 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Cole - 01/24/2018 05:34 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - SurferMic - 01/24/2018 06:38 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - ww - 01/24/2018 07:00 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 01/24/2018 07:25 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - ww - 01/24/2018 07:38 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 01/24/2018 08:31 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - SurferMic - 01/24/2018 11:11 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Sector9surf - 01/24/2018 03:33 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - artz - 03/05/2018 12:04 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 01/24/2018 08:20 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - waveaddict - 02/02/2018 09:30 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - surfmcc32 - 02/26/2018 02:15 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 02/26/2018 02:37 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - ww - 02/26/2018 04:50 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 02/26/2018 07:48 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 02/27/2018 05:24 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Cosmicviking - 02/27/2018 05:46 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 02/27/2018 05:46 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - onebuck - 01/23/2018 03:42 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - chopola - 01/23/2018 07:28 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - waveaddict - 01/23/2018 07:42 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 01/24/2018 06:54 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - TunnelVision - 02/28/2018 08:20 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - TunnelVision - 02/28/2018 08:21 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - ww - 02/28/2018 11:42 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Slackattack - 03/05/2018 04:03 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - stokedpanda - 03/05/2018 06:15 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Julianuribe23 - 03/05/2018 08:38 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - StirfryMcflurry - 03/05/2018 08:40 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - SurferMic - 03/05/2018 10:38 AM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - ootrucstopoo - 03/08/2018 06:58 PM  
 Looking to get into big wave surfing   - Plan B - 03/12/2018 07:13 AM  
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 01/23/2018 07:42 PM
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waveaddict

Posts: 1072
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Just got back from the North Shore and did the goal of surfing there in the winter that I always dreamed about. I can't say enough how humbling and fearful are the feelings that overwhelm you on the travel there to the paddle out . I did not go alone stupidly. I had two very experienced locals guide me to a spot just west of Waimea Bay. Alligators for anyone that knows the area. I can say it was a moment in life etched forever. The feeling of conquering such a task still has me on the high. Two solid sets were enough for me as fighting the white water from driving me into the rocks and reef limited my desire to go on.

Go for it! I can't say enough the feeling of dropping off a Hawaiian North Shore wave will do for you soul, spirit and living life boldly. I am a changed man for sure. I wish I was your age to keep charging for the future. I'm 52. Not sure but I am pretty sure that was the peak for me. Only a tow in could notch it up for me. The power. The serinty words can't be put to. Surfing is so much of a mental sport when you get to this kind of wave. Every big wave surfer I talked to would say the same first piece of advice in this order. That is learn to relax and fight nothing. Let yourself go until the violence is over to reserve your hold down time. Second train in breath holds. Third diet and work out. The North Shore has a luxury tho. That is the paddle out. You have raging rips that jet you out so you take minimal hits going out. Timing is the key. Waiting after a set of 5-10 waves literally has an effect of water running of the plate but in this case it's the reef. Time it right and your out there. It's a far paddle when the big boys roll in. But the comfort of deeper water adds a little more security.
When I was out there weeks ago I sadly was surfing not far from Dusty's accident. His face got ripped and teeth gone. Another older Pro died on Rocky Point. This was from a swell big enough to break large on the shallow reef. Pipe standards I would call it. But when it gets bigger Pipe and Sunset and the others close down and outer breaks appear. Where i went out this happened. I felt more comfortable chasing the larger wave as it was breaking deeper. But the white water mountain raging behind me as i cut out would jam you into the shallow reef if you did not get out quick. It was scaring me I will admit as I was under saying this forward tumbling better stop soon. O I hope I can get back out too. My timiing taking the last wave of the set paid off dearly. I caught the rip and got out both times quickly. But if I would of took that first wave it's meat grinding time with no help in sight as we surfed a remote area so we would not have to contend with any agro surfers on the same swell.

Bottom line go for your goal. Go for your dream. When you catch it it's a treasure in the mind that plays for ever a great memory. Seeking local training as the others have said is the best thing I can recommend too. I never stopped asking and talking to everyone before I went out. If I did not and went on my own intuition. I might not be typing this thread. I even prepared silently before I left in getting my will up to date. I wanted to make sure if I went out the way I would like my kids were taken care of as they are all over 20 now. Be wise from the planning to the paddle in. It pays off in the North Shore.

I also would recommend Northern Nicaragua called the boom. It's good practice for the North Shore in the Winter but with sandy bottom options. Reefs don't have any grace. I was fortinate to leave Hawaii with a bloody reef cut on the foot and that's all. Life is Good! Surf till you can't breath no more!

-------------------------
Think and seek and you shall find.....
 01/24/2018 06:54 AM
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Plan B

Posts: 3302
Joined Forum: 03/08/2004

Originally posted by: waveaddict I had two very experienced locals guide me to a spot just west of Waimea Bay. Alligators for anyone that knows the area. I can say it was a moment in life etched forever. The feeling of conquering such a task still has me on the high. Two solid sets were enough for me as fighting the white water from driving me into the rocks and reef limited my desire to go on.

Gators... I have a love/hate relationship with that wave (same with Backyards) I've had the "pleasure" of getting hucked over the falls and breaking my leash on a 6ft++ day..... the board washed way down towards Leftovers (Carmen's) and was somehow unscathed.  Was an interesting swim to find it though

Stoked to hear you had a good trip

 

Jocko's is such a heavier wave than it looks from the beach.... finally surfed it 2 years ago (last time I was there) on a solid day and got anniliated on the inside as a wave denotated in front of me.  That one hurt

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