It's something I've been wanting to get into ever since I saw triple overhead Tres Palmas go off back in March 2013 - I watched in amazement yet knew I was unprepared - equipment, experience, fitness and mentality wise. 

Fast forward a few years later - I've gotten to the point where I can literally surf any swell in Florida comfortably. I went to Puerto Rico exactly a year ago as well and wasn't phased by anything, and some sets were pushing double overhead. I may never be as technically proficient as a shredder as I wish I could be... but big wave surfing is something I feel like I could get into with the a headstrong attitude.

I'm 26, in pretty good shape, and don't have any strong commitments in my life yet - if there's any time in my life to do this, it's now. I know there's some hardcore chargers that reside in the 321 - any tips or guidance in terms of taking my first true steps into proper big wave surfing? Any input and help is appreciated.

Edited: 01/24/2018 at 08:23 AM by Julianuribe23

You're probably going to need to move, or have plenty of airline funds..

-------------------------


When America was "great"

Head to Northern California, it's a good place to transition. Mavericks is a sight to see but not a place to start... there are a lot of other point breaks out there & good people to connect with - probably online forums or facestalker best way get intros - but be honest with your abilities: DOH at Tres Palmas is more like just the shore break you've gotta paddle through just to start the real paddle out to the deep water break & keep in mind that Pacific long period is a whole nother thing... but you can work up just take it one step at a time and train train train. It's not so much about ability in surfing technique rather more about physical ability!

But, riding a real big wave - paddle in not tow - is an experience you'll never forget! I remember my first big wave, probably 20' face, I just turned went and it felt like an eternity going down  down forever and was scared as shit but the stoke I felt after!!!!

 

Good luck and have fun 

-------------------------

get up early and go surf - it'll make that hangover go away and/or make the workday more tolerable :)

Well, you need to move. That would be a good first start.

Oahu would be a good start. The water is warm and you can work your way up to size at the less popular spots. Backyards is a good starting point.

-------------------------
I was right.

1) do you want to just surf "bigger" waves?

2) or do you want to be a full charger?

If the latter, then yes it's prob time to relocate like others have said unless you have pockets and schedule to chase and spend time a big wave venues....

If the former, start by taking trips to get some serious waves.... (ex: North Shore instead of Brosta Rica, etc) and get some legit boards

If you're a solid surfer and in pretty good physical shape, it's mostly mental.... I wish I was 26 again

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

Sorry for the multiple replies. Glitch on my wifi.

The latter. I thought about relocating but I wanted to train here and then book it to PR the next time they get an XL swell - I hear a lot how Tres is the 'gateway' big wave in terms of getting into proper big wave charging.

I'm sure theres people here that make spontaneous trips to PR in order to charge XL swells, so I was hoping someone could take me under their wing and show me the ropes. Obviously, I would be training and what not under my own, but I feel like that mentorship would be a game changer.

Yes, you can definitely hope on JetBlue to chase big swells (I've done it... only time Ive been to PR actually.... took serious doughnuts at Tres for the amusement of others)*

but to be honest... that's not a good way to get comfortable.  You have to be able to work your way up to it, and it definitely takes repetition.  Those types there just happen sporadically, so it's pretty hard to be in a "comfort zone" (if there is such a  thing)... you'd need to spend some time there.

The quickest route  is to really plan on some time on the North Shore... You can train your body anywhere, when it comes to mind and surf skills....hard to "Train" for big waves without big waves 

There are some chargers in FL, but I'm pretty sure most have spent serious time (or lived) in areas that get legit waves... (sans the pro level guys that just have the pure skills)

 

While I've surfed some bigger waves, I'm NOT a big wave a charger... but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express

 

* I've "surfed" Tres once (mostly just got cleaned up multiple times) but I'll say it's less intimidating than Sunset for sure (sans the freak XXL days that happen on a once a decade basis)  That was my only time in PR.  Been to North shore prob 8 or 9 times.... going again next week

Edited: 01/22/2018 at 02:29 PM by Plan B

How long can you hold your breath while getting your ass beat?

Good luck and get a trusty sidekick to capture the chronicle.

-------------------------
"Don't count the days, make the days count." -Ali
#rydyrstrong

not sure what involved but Todos Santos always looked somewhat "playful" on smaller days, suppers etc out there.

Maybe try and find some tall but tame waves to get your feet wet.

IMO the crowd alone at some of the big wave spots is too dangerous to risk lol

-------------------------
I troll 2L.com to be a better person in real life

Never considered Todos Santos. How does it compare to Tres?

Edited: 01/23/2018 at 08:30 AM by Julianuribe23

Very good post from artz!

If you want to become an underground charger, you need to move to the North Shore. The closest FL has ever had to an underground charger is probably Todd Morcom, but he transitioned into that role after being a sponsored pro. Running with rocks in the Banana River all summer and then surfing Tres Palmas twice a winter isn't going to cut it...unless that's what you're looking for. Don't mean for that to come across as negative.

-------------------------
"If I say it's safe to surf this beach, captain, then it's safe to surf this beach!"

 Bring your money and your balls to the North Shore. I would think cold water breaks would not be a good learning ground.

This is the most retarded, redundant, made for flat out ruding thread evaz!!! Go to Puerto and paddle out on a 10'-12' day on a 5'10" twin fin!!! If you dont drowned, you are a big wave surfer and carry on from there!!! Always remember that stupid is as stupid does, and if you ask a dumbass question, expect to get an asshole answer!!! God Bless and stop being such a Barney,... Barney!!!

-------------------------
Tubes, Boobs, & Doobs!!!

Tres Palmas is like a slower version of sunset when its big but still doesnt match the north shore. Take a couple weeks and get out to hawaii and work your way up. Get the right board too because a 6'0 thruster used here is almost useless once its overhead there. The waves are very fat and fast; a wave a couple feet overhead looks about as wide as a house. Dont paddle straight out into overhead conditions because you will get your ass kicked and wash up back to shore completely rattled and stunned. A lot of the spots have outer reefs that break when a big set is coming and thats your signal to start paddling further out. When you get steam rolled by a large set HOLD ON TO YOUR BOARD. If you lose it you are probably not going to be able to tread water between waves because there is so much air coming up its almost impossible so you might be holding your breathe for a while. Its worth the experience though. Once you spend a couple weeks getting pounded out there youll have a better idea if you really want to pursue big wave surfing. 

.

Edited: 01/25/2018 at 07:01 PM by SurferMic

Time for CROSS-training...take off the leash & go for a paddle/surf/swim

-------------------------------------------------------------------
East winds 15 to 20 knots diminishing to 10 to
15 knots in the afternoon. Seas 7 to 10 feet with a dominant
period 9 seconds. Choppy on the intracoastal waters. Slight
chance of showers.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Would be cool if you could go out with a buddy get to the outside and give him your board and do the swim in...maybe just easier to swim all the way to the outside, body-surf a few and swim back in.  Endurance and learning to be being alone without any floatation "in the mix". Beats doing yard work.

More X-traning...Merrit Island FunPlex, go to the vert ramp , look over the edge and drop in on the 14 foot extension (if you sk8)..Looking ove the edge of a giant vert ramp saying , routine stuff, no big deal....tail drop and feel the rush. Locally that is about all you can do.  There is a similiar feeling of fear many get when looking over the edge of a 12-14 foot vert ramp. After a while the fear is gone..

Edited: 01/26/2018 at 09:07 AM by SurferMic

I wish.... WT is 53 here 

Bodysurfing in big surf can sometimes be really fun and its a hell of a workout. Lol

 

Video

Http://youtu.be/c4blxjvsckq

Edited: 01/29/2018 at 05:41 AM by Sector9surf

 

Is there any way I could get in contact with him? I would seriously appreciate it.

Edited: 01/23/2018 at 08:22 AM by Julianuribe23

At age 26, you might check possibilities for a work permit in New Zealand or Australia.  Chances of fitting into one of their areas of need are slim, but for all I know you might be an electrician or the right kind of nurse. 

 

 

I'm gonna look into an extended stay in Oahu sometime during the late season. Thanks for all the input guys!

that's what you need to do. Hopefully you score.....

I'll sell ya a 6-10 and a 7-6.  They've seen alot of action and have a decent tan, but they'll be cheap, so you can charge and break em with little consequence 

The 7-6 has gone over the falls on plenty of big waves and it's still in one piece, so you know it's solid.... moreso than it's owner 

Unless you're looking to pussy foot around, you need to go straight to Nazare and get on with it.  In fact you should have been there on Jan 18, 2018

Read my mind! Board shorts or a speedo at nazeres and paddling in or you're just another kook in the line up!



-------------------------
I type on fone 99% of time. Let the typos slyde. Thanks

Can't go wrong with that!


-------------------------
Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean

A key thing that I haven't seen mentioned is to get a board by a very reputable shaper who specializes in guns and who is either located where you are going, or who really knows that specific wave well. Get a board shaped for the exact spot, or short list of spots, that you specifically plan on surfing. If you go to Hawaii, order a gun by the local shapers there before you go, so it's waiting for you when you arrive. My gun was shaped by a local shaper for the wave I was surfing, and it definitely worked so well that it saved my butt on a couple of really late drops.

No, the Boom isn’t a good suggestion. I have surfed it big and heavy and it was still manageable for a slightly below average surfer like myself. Maybe if you paddle around the impact zone against a rip at low tide when it is big there you would get adequate training I suppose. It will beat you up good from personal experience.

Excellent story waveaddict. Charging!

-------------------------
I was right.

Another vote for parking it on the N. Shore for a few weeks, 7'6" at Sunset bch. get there at dawn, Dry hair paddle then work your way into the main peak.  Everything happens twice a fast as compared to PR.  Getting a few wipe-outs and geting caught inside is good, once you realize you can survive you can continue learning.  Many would disagree on this but a SIMPLE floataion vest may be a good investment, not the type that have Air canisters but the slim ones that will give you some flotation when your leash breaks (and it will).

Many years while on my annual N. Shore trip(s)...a surfer lost his board @ Jockos and another Ozzie came to his rescue they both got swept out to sea, they could not make it back in on one board, night time came they were still missing, Coast Guard finally located them late that night...everyone thought they were dead.

http://getwashed.com/coast-guard-rescues-2-surfers-off-oahus-north-shore/

Also remember Kirk passing a few days before I arrived on a trip many years ago..entire N. Shore was in shock, went to Banzia Sushi to pay respect to the memorial they had for him.

https://www.surfer.com/photos/kirk-passmores-final-wave/

at 26 you are fearless...things can and do go wrong for many expeirenced surfers, do not have kids and stay single as bad as that sounds cause you never know...

Pratice in FL is only paddle, paddle, paddle and swimming laps underwater, and go out on the days that are 12'@9 secs to practice geting out through 20 walls of whitewater..not much else you can do. Ever been denied in FL? if not you have not gone out on a great practice day we rarely see.

Edited: 01/24/2018 at 07:03 AM by SurferMic

Literature department:  Bruce Jenkins must be getting close to 70, but the San Francisco sports writer knew the North Shore.  

Not specifically aimed at surfers, but expert:  Beaches of Oahu.  University of Hawai'i Press periodically has big sales.   

Hatteras lighthouse and vicinity seems to have been a good training ground for Hawaii.  So this photo should make Plan B's look even better.

This was a miserably cold January 15.   I was having serious back pain, walking from the car was miserable, and an epic runny nose was getting started.  Water was allegedly 39.  And the waves, while decent, were not looking exactly easy to find takeoff spots.  

Edited: 01/24/2018 at 08:18 AM by ww

Some of your stories really get me stoked about going for this, thanks for sharing guys!

.

Edited: 01/25/2018 at 07:02 PM by SurferMic

I don't understand the desire for giant surf. Once the surf is a certain size, things become more survival oriented than anything. It's humbling, gratifying, etc..., Maybe done right it's not so dangerous, but it seems to me to be a lot of training with little reward, and situations which you might not get yourself out of. How much time do you need to spend training, plus then bobbing around in giant surf before you get a good ride?

What do you consider big wave surfing? Tahiti and Pipe up to double or triple overhead seem to be surfed regularly by CT pros and are still big waves, but then spots like Nazare and Puerto Escondido or Mavs have a different crew. I wouldn't claim either of those as being easier to surf, but it does seem like more pros would be comfortable surfing Pipe and Tahiti than a wave like Nazare or Mavs, and I assume this is mostly based on skill vs brawn. (Why risk your life?)

Do pro's survival train for waves like Pipe or Tahiti, or you mentioned Tres Palmas? It seems to me that, they just surf a lot and have been in those conditions enough times to be comfortable. I could be way off, but I don't think early pros trained in the same way people think of it as now. I'd imagine you could surf equally well just by surfing those same spots on smaller days until you feel comfortable in the big stuff.

So what is the appeal of big XXL waves?

Edited: 01/24/2018 at 03:48 PM by Sector9surf

I started a reply to the above and my battery ran low on my iPad. 

Surfing in Big waves is not for everyone. 6 Foot Hawaiian was scary.  Most of the people I knew in Hawaii where much better in bigger conditions. 

 surfers surfing Big waves that you would never see in Surf video, magazine or even hear of in a surf web sight. Most have regular jobs of one kind on the other. Some have Families the one thing they have in common is the love of surfing big waves. There was this one Teacher and Coach at a High School in the San Diego area. He was a a regular at Swamies and often surfed Big Blacks. When massive swell hit he disappeared across the boarder to a then very secret spot. When word was getting out about Todos Santos. We know that that is where he was going. Todos is not an easy wave to surf it is a shallow rock bottom shifty wave with big boils in the face.  The water is cold. The out and back can be cold and wet. 

I applude anyone that has the desire to Big Waves.  By building your skills getting mentored by one of those that know the wave is the best way to earn your place in the line up. 

Edited: 03/05/2018 at 04:17 PM by artz

I honestly would have no shame or issue with wearing a vest and a helmet, especially when starting off. I remember reading about Kirk's death a while back and that was one hell of a way to go.

Edited: 01/24/2018 at 08:39 AM by Julianuribe23

Thanks Cole! It was a humbling experience for sure!

-------------------------
Think and seek and you shall find.....

Looks like you’re gonna have a chance to get a taste here, let us know what time you’re paddleing out at RCs on the big days  

I'm pretty excited......  hopefully we don't get Charlie Browned

Some scrumptious fresh pics from around Dunedin, NZ with a hand planer among the boarders.  Box of Light.

 

I'll definitely be out there... this is what I've been waiting for

I'll definitely be out there... this is what I've been waiting for

Reef Road

Pump House

Stuart Rocks

Hobe Sound

Juno

Monster Hole

 

Go Get it Roger

How exactly is Tres Palmas like Sunset???

 

Reef road and Stuart rocks is where I was thinking of surfing 

Morcom charges no doubt...but lets not forget about "H"..me paw has shown me some pretty heavy barrel pics...he gets the XL shit as well...goodluck

Julian, you sound like your having a mid life crisis. If you are serious about surfing serious surf, sell all your stuff and start over in Hawaii. Plenty of opportunity to see if you have what it takes there. I used to spend a couple months there each winter when I was young, and the conclusion I came to was you have got to live there to really get dialed in.

I would expect that once you get a taste of some real juice, you will be happy with just really good waves. good luck

Just got back from the North Shore and did the goal of surfing there in the winter that I always dreamed about. I can't say enough how humbling and fearful are the feelings that overwhelm you on the travel there to the paddle out . I did not go alone stupidly. I had two very experienced locals guide me to a spot just west of Waimea Bay. Alligators for anyone that knows the area. I can say it was a moment in life etched forever. The feeling of conquering such a task still has me on the high. Two solid sets were enough for me as fighting the white water from driving me into the rocks and reef limited my desire to go on.

Go for it! I can't say enough the feeling of dropping off a Hawaiian North Shore wave will do for you soul, spirit and living life boldly. I am a changed man for sure. I wish I was your age to keep charging for the future. I'm 52. Not sure but I am pretty sure that was the peak for me. Only a tow in could notch it up for me. The power. The serinty words can't be put to. Surfing is so much of a mental sport when you get to this kind of wave. Every big wave surfer I talked to would say the same first piece of advice in this order. That is learn to relax and fight nothing. Let yourself go until the violence is over to reserve your hold down time. Second train in breath holds. Third diet and work out. The North Shore has a luxury tho. That is the paddle out. You have raging rips that jet you out so you take minimal hits going out. Timing is the key. Waiting after a set of 5-10 waves literally has an effect of water running of the plate but in this case it's the reef. Time it right and your out there. It's a far paddle when the big boys roll in. But the comfort of deeper water adds a little more security.
When I was out there weeks ago I sadly was surfing not far from Dusty's accident. His face got ripped and teeth gone. Another older Pro died on Rocky Point. This was from a swell big enough to break large on the shallow reef. Pipe standards I would call it. But when it gets bigger Pipe and Sunset and the others close down and outer breaks appear. Where i went out this happened. I felt more comfortable chasing the larger wave as it was breaking deeper. But the white water mountain raging behind me as i cut out would jam you into the shallow reef if you did not get out quick. It was scaring me I will admit as I was under saying this forward tumbling better stop soon. O I hope I can get back out too. My timiing taking the last wave of the set paid off dearly. I caught the rip and got out both times quickly. But if I would of took that first wave it's meat grinding time with no help in sight as we surfed a remote area so we would not have to contend with any agro surfers on the same swell.

Bottom line go for your goal. Go for your dream. When you catch it it's a treasure in the mind that plays for ever a great memory. Seeking local training as the others have said is the best thing I can recommend too. I never stopped asking and talking to everyone before I went out. If I did not and went on my own intuition. I might not be typing this thread. I even prepared silently before I left in getting my will up to date. I wanted to make sure if I went out the way I would like my kids were taken care of as they are all over 20 now. Be wise from the planning to the paddle in. It pays off in the North Shore.

I also would recommend Northern Nicaragua called the boom. It's good practice for the North Shore in the Winter but with sandy bottom options. Reefs don't have any grace. I was fortinate to leave Hawaii with a bloody reef cut on the foot and that's all. Life is Good! Surf till you can't breath no more!

-------------------------
Think and seek and you shall find.....

Gators... I have a love/hate relationship with that wave (same with Backyards) I've had the "pleasure" of getting hucked over the falls and breaking my leash on a 6ft++ day..... the board washed way down towards Leftovers (Carmen's) and was somehow unscathed.  Was an interesting swim to find it though

Stoked to hear you had a good trip

 

Jocko's is such a heavier wave than it looks from the beach.... finally surfed it 2 years ago (last time I was there) on a solid day and got anniliated on the inside as a wave denotated in front of me.  That one hurt

I gotta echo the question of Why? Surfing is about fun, right? Go up to outer banks and get some barrels. much less crowded and much cheaper. I mean, to each their own... If it's more about the challenge to you, then so be it. Just know that you don't need to prove shit to no one.

duplicate removed

Between Juno and Monster Hole, perhaps a bit sheltered by a reef with NE winds.  This was offshore.  Morning with onshore was pretty ugly.  Possibly Daniel Glenn

BTW, this was a dreamy day at Hatteras, but as is obvious on videos, the place offers quality training.  Feb 25, 2017

Edited: 02/28/2018 at 11:59 PM by ww

The cost to stay on the North Shore vs cost to stay at Puerto for a season....Mexico can train you up right. Stay there and go out on days your confortable with. By the end of your 2nd season there you'll be a bad a$$ for sure. A month there is like the cost of a less than a week on the N Shore. Unless your friends with Turtle.

Nils Schweitzer cut his teeth there and is a standout in heavy surf, he charges!

-------------------------
I troll 2L.com to be a better person in real life

Edited: 03/05/2018 at 09:43 AM by stokedpanda

Tres Palma's is going off...

Today would be a good day to give it a try....

Yesterday was a good day to push limits, paddled out around 2'ish? at Paraidise alone...Not too bad, just keep forward progress,  keep calm..finally made it out and there he was....another sole out! So wierd, did not see him, no one else even trying to go out but I end up next to a Spanish surfer, he knew little English except "Waves Amazing".  Cool guy, big smiles, traded off a few then he caught a big one and was gone. I actually prefer to be alone in big surf so even better...

About an hour later down around Double Tree the size started getting much bigger (10' faces)...got one bomb, rode it too far and I was done...I set out to do what I wanted, make it out, catch a few big drops, make it back without walking miles back home (Thanks Matt_T for the ride to Paradise!).  GO!!! Big fun drops await, just expect a low wave count. 

 

To Slackattack...HI  N. Shore can be done on the cheap, N. Shore oceanfront camping 20 mins from the 7 mile miracle for $15.00 night safe/secure very clean.  Stock up at Foodland for beer/supplies.

Edited: 03/05/2018 at 12:45 PM by SurferMic

you paddled in brah?

Yeah. 

So where did Derrick Doerner Jr. surf last week?