I honestly believed that I was probably one of the very few people in the world that surfed there. We called it crocalillo. Big Salty croc hanging out there. But was what a wave. We were taking off right at the water boil and launched into a very heavy left.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.