I left the skin on my forehead, nose, cheek snd chin on the sand bar in Dominical. I could have broken my neck. I Almost did. I kept taking waves later and deeper and talked myself into the belief that skills were improving with every day there and that deep heavy tube I dropped late into and made it out with the sneeze of the wave as it broke was imminent. My friend was taking pictures. Kodak courage. It's real.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.