TOTALLY UNRELATED FISH STORY ( THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY : )

Edited: 02/14/2021 at 03:18 PM by JOESTRUMMER

Doesn't look that big , guns look rediculous and the surfing looks goon squad . That place that difficult or is this amateur hour?

Looks like a soft take-off for waves that size, fun!

I bet that would hold you down like a mofo.

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I was right.

Great looking drone video of Tres- and strong edit as well- thanks for sharing! It almost looks like fun on this particular day....but am sure the reality was slightly different!

They are wearing wetsuits. Why is that?

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

There were days that we would wear 1mm suits on oahu . water was 72-74 and air was 72 with a hard offshore . When you are young and skinny it felt better , now that I've fattened up it not necessary.

Mr. Hollinger is entirely spot on correct , I lived in da Islands for 7 Years (One on the North Shore , Four on the Big Island and One each on Maui and Kauai ----- before Operation Green Harvest sent me packing !) and you would always see a fair amount of people with vests and even spring suits on in the lineup especially with the strong Trade Winds and during late evening sessions .

Edited: 02/15/2021 at 06:23 PM by JOESTRUMMER

Homie on the longboard got the ride of the day!! so sick

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SK8 AND DESTROY

yea, that was v impressive

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https://www.instagram.com/dj_kaye_/

Interesting choice of equipment for the conditions, and it paid off. Not a good day to duckdive though.

Funny story about the wetsuits:

I met some Canadian surfers from Vancouver BC at Pavones. They were surfing in wetsuits and dying from the heat. When I asked them why, they said it was because they had TracTop on their boards from nose to tail, and would get a rash surfing without a wetsuit (which they had never done).

Unable to bear missing out on classic Pavones, they ripped the TracTops off their boards, and in pure bliss, skinned it for the first time in their life. Their pasty, white, Canadian skin was red as a langosta the next day. They were hurting, but still loving it.

lol, damn canucks!

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https://www.instagram.com/dj_kaye_/

I would suggest that you google Tony Silvagni. He has been a top 10 pro longbarder and many time pro contest winner for many years.



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"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


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