Have not read but heard good things, plus Nick Carroll rules, but the book he did on his brother TC. For a look at an interesting character that is a sad story is 'The Life of Michael Peterson'. Both are legends and the story of surfing cannot be told without their inclusion.

I have read Barbarian Days, good read but slow at the end. Chas Smith's first book worth a read. I have his new one coming in today.

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QOP = Terrorists
FK = Gay