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Topic Title: Surf lit: fiction, nonfiction, verse Topic Summary: Your recs Created On: 06/06/2018 06:01 AM |
Linear : Threading : Single : Branch |
- AndreaCaloiaro | - 06/06/2018 06:01 AM |
- twinfin62 | - 06/06/2018 06:10 AM |
- daner | - 06/06/2018 06:19 AM |
- moody | - 06/06/2018 07:27 AM |
- Zeus | - 06/06/2018 08:17 AM |
- TeeBirdForever | - 06/06/2018 09:34 AM |
- SrfGtr | - 06/06/2018 11:11 AM |
- AndreaCaloiaro | - 06/07/2018 05:53 AM |
- daner | - 06/07/2018 06:59 AM |
- AndreaCaloiaro | - 06/08/2018 05:40 AM |
- TeeBirdForever | - 06/08/2018 10:17 AM |
- OceanTerra | - 06/08/2018 06:04 PM |
- oceanstreet | - 06/09/2018 10:17 PM |
- wbsponger | - 06/10/2018 06:33 PM |
- SurfCaster | - 06/11/2018 02:28 PM |
- surfmcc32 | - 06/11/2018 03:17 PM |
- AndreaCaloiaro | - 06/12/2018 05:48 AM |
- moody | - 06/12/2018 06:26 AM |
- TeeBirdForever | - 06/12/2018 09:38 AM |
- artz | - 06/13/2018 04:02 AM |
- TeeBirdForever | - 06/13/2018 05:39 AM |
- artz | - 06/14/2018 05:13 AM |
- AndreaCaloiaro | - 06/15/2018 05:57 AM |
- oceanblue | - 06/16/2018 08:36 AM |
- IamSAW | - 06/17/2018 05:54 AM |
- moody | - 06/12/2018 06:27 AM |
- daner | - 06/12/2018 06:49 AM |
- moody | - 06/12/2018 11:56 AM |
- daner | - 06/12/2018 12:21 PM |
- wtf | - 06/12/2018 01:15 PM |
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06/12/2018 06:26 AM
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I didn't think Caught Inside was that bad. But I like Dan Duane's other stuff. I have a collection of women's surf stories called Girl In the curl that's pretty good if a bit hokey - it's got profiles of women surfers and I enjoyed that aspect (I can never read enough about Rell Sun).
I refuse to give Allen Weispecker any money so I won't recommend Captain Zero, but it was a pretty good read if a bit psychedelic and self-absorbed (not as bad as his second one, in which he goes totally batpoop crazy and which I read more because someone handed it to me and said "can you BELIEVE this crap?)
We need better surf literature. I am reduced to reading William Finnegan's (he wrote Barbarian Days) articles in the New Yorker.
------------------------- [Feminism is] a socialist, anti-family, political movement that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become lesbians. ~Pat Robertson |
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06/12/2018 09:38 AM
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Caught Inside is good. So is Looking for Mo. |
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06/13/2018 04:02 AM
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Caught Inside is good. So is Looking for Mo.
All my books are packed away. Getting ready to move from the Gulf Coast to Vero Beach area. Captain Zero was OK. Like Tee bird, I think Wisenbecker is way too self absorbed. There was another book he wrote that honestly it is the worse thing I have every read. So bad I don’t recall the Title. A book on the rise of the Surf industry called World In Curl is good give some insight to uthe rise of Surf culture and the the Commercialization of Surfing. Barbarian Days is coming up for a 2nd read. Kook a book written by a Sports writer from Colorado is about his journey into Surfing.
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06/13/2018 05:39 AM
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I was quoting J. Moody, but I kind of agree with that sentiment. Oh, another book I liked was the one by Kimo Hollinger. It's just a series of (true) vignettes, but he has a great sense of humor. Also, he's Hawaiian so you can get that perspective. https://www.amazon.com/Kimo-Collection-Short-Stories-Hollinger/dp/0970261837 |
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06/14/2018 05:13 AM
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Two autobiographies by Surf hero’s from my young Gremmie years are Morning Glass by Mike Doyle, and Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Mike Hynson. |
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06/15/2018 05:57 AM
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Looks like the order of the day for surf lit is biography and nonfiction, with some fiction and its subgenres in the mix. I see a few mixed reactions to Weisbecker. My own impression is pretty indifferent; Zero's theme almost seems like a heuristic for reading the text itself - not the "end of the road" or the whole life, but only moments of the book are of value along the way. |
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06/16/2018 08:36 AM
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Blue Mind by Wallace J. Nichols.
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06/17/2018 05:54 AM
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