No doubt a paywall, so thelinknot show much. I started subscribing to the magazine when Gary Larson abruptly retired, and I was starving. Finnegan's very long "Playing Doc's Games" got shared.

Profiles

A Surf Legend's Long Ride

For Jock Sutherland, being hailed as the world's best surfer was just one phase in an unlikely life.

By William Finnegan

Edited: 06/08/2024 at 04:57 AM by ww

Oddly enough, im reading Barbarian Years right now, thank you Brevard Library, and enjoy Finnigan's style. Thanks for the heads up.

-------------------------
add a signature since I'm here in profile anyway

The paper copy showed up today.

I was able to read the entire article online (after navigating a couple of pop ups). Thanks much for pointing this out!

I'm laid up with a little recovery time and reading Barbarian Days (not years, doh) which is actually pretty good. From the MelBeach branch of the Library. There's a passage toward the end that reads "Getting old as a surfer, I'd heard it said, was just a long, slow, humiliating process of becoming a kook again." Somebody underlined and wrote in the margin 'Sadly true'. Any of you yahoos want to 'fess up?

-------------------------
add a signature since I'm here in profile anyway

I have always wondered how Greg Noll was able to just walk away. Sadly, I am figuring it out.