Hang 10... or as they now say...hit the lip!

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Topic Title: Old days longboard paddling question
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Created On: 10/22/2021 10:11 AM
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 10/22/2021 10:11 AM
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dingpatch

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So, way back when, , , , , , before short boards and leashes, , , , , , growing up in South Patrick Shores, , , , , ,

On a "typical", decent sized day, , , , , surfing for, let's say 4 hours, , , , ,

How many miles did we paddle out and North/South, and swim in to the beach to retrieve our boards after a wipe out ?????

I'd say certainly over five miles !?
 10/22/2021 10:33 AM
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garcia

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It all depends. I can remember swimming in some days after hitting the bottom and bouncing on big windy surf on every wave. That usually coincided with a big north drift. Sometimes I paddled non-stop. Other times, when it was magic, I did more riding than swimming or paddling. But, on the worst days, 5 miles was probably an underestimate. You could do a mile paddling out and swimming in on two waves. And, that didn't include trying to maintain a spot. (Of course, technically, if you were only maintaining, you paddled 0 miles, and if you were losing ground...)

The bottom line, though, was that not ONE of us ever, EVER said, "My leash broke and I almost drowned." We knew how to swim and were strong enough to do it back in the days of "Iron men and wooden ships"!
 10/22/2021 10:55 AM
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JOESTRUMMER

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What are these " Leash " things that you gentlemen speak of , and where pray tell can I purchase one ?

Edited: 10/22/2021 at 02:25 PM by JOESTRUMMER
 10/22/2021 11:47 AM
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seasmyth

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And lets face it, when you lost your board on a day when the wave had some size to them you typically swam back out a little bit to body surf back in as far as you could.
 10/22/2021 01:20 PM
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long_flaco1

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That is substantially hardcore bro's!

I've had my leash break like 3 times in 20 years surfing, and it sucked every time, but it wasn't the end of the world.. More upsetting to yourself than anything else in my book LOL

(With the exception of one time I was out at the pier on an overhead day, and an older gentlemen maybe in his late 50s was swimming in with no board as I'm paddling back out after a nice wave n super stoked and he goes "Hey man can you help me? my leash broke and I'm cramping up badly right now on my both legs! Can I please use your board to get back in to the shore?" Of course I said yes, and I swam in while he paddled in on my board.. On this particular day I was NOT mad, but rather glad that I could help the surfer in need, and only hope some other fellow surf homie would do the same for me if I was ever in a similar situation!)

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SK8 AND DESTROY
 10/24/2021 04:01 PM
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crankit

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The worst was after waxing your board with fresh Gulfwax, after turtling through a couple dozen piles of soup you would finally make it outside, almost catching your breath someone hollers OUTSIDE and you scratch for the horizon only to get lip punched by the Big one, as you feel your board slide from your hands you start swimming while getting washingmachined all the way in!

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"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same."
 10/24/2021 05:09 PM
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johnnyboy

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Turtling on your bongo. I love those old pictures.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 10/24/2021 05:43 PM
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StirfryMcflurry

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Originally posted by: dingpatch , , , , surfing for, let's say 4 hours, , , , , How many miles did we paddle out and North/South, and swim in to the beach to retrieve our boards after a wipe out ????? I'd say certainly over five miles !?
where are the 2L math majors when ya need em? I'm gonna say 3.5 miles, (in South CB Units.)

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Low tide is the new high tide.
 10/24/2021 06:25 PM
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tom

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Yep. Still without a leash as much as possible. Something free and sensual without one ... bareback? I put a pic in the Larry thead, footloose and loving it. Edit: there it is, bout 1/2 way down first page. https://2ndlight.com/fusetalk/...d=201352&enterthread=y

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Edited: 10/24/2021 at 06:31 PM by tom
 10/24/2021 06:49 PM
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tom

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Hmm, ok, 100 yards out (usually not that far), 6 rides an hour (use your own judgement), 4 hrs = 2400 yds (2200 meters, a good swim workout) or 1.3 miles, not counting drift. Tires me out just thinking about it

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 10/25/2021 07:06 AM
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dingpatch

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But then, all those days at Monster Hole, BIG or not, , , , , getting into the line up and spending the next 3 hours paddling against the outflow towards the tip of the North jetty !!!

The "worst" day was DOH North. Greg and I always sat out past the "pack" and did our best to only catch the very biggest ones (I was right, he was left). Then, Oh Oh ! The biggest set of the day started to show in the channel and started "jacking up" out-out-side !! Started to paddle my ass off and had a DOH lip come right down of the nose of my 6'7" !!! The leash did not stand chance and I actually hit the bottom. Swam all the way to the beach only to find that my board had taken a turn South in the mid-rip and was headed out to the South East. I had to borrow a board and paddle half way to the Bahamas to get mine. Oh and, a "stitcher" had tasted my foot about 30 yards from the beach on my swim in !!!

Edited: 10/25/2021 at 07:17 AM by dingpatch
 10/25/2021 08:18 AM
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garcia

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I am okay with people surfing sans leash, IF (and it is a big, big "if") THEY WOULD HANG ONTO THEIR DAMNED BOARDS!!!!! Since they don't know how or won't or can't (it's apparently a lost art; we used to take some serious beatings hanging on back in the days pre-kook cord), wear a damned leash when you are in a crowd. I had one guy tell me that surfing with a leash is overrated right after he had shot his board right past me. If you surf in a crowd, wear a damned leash. Same thing about getting naked at the beach - don't do it in a crowd. And, please, please, please don't tell me about your freedom. I am sick of people putting me at risk because of their "freedom". It's a matter of respect and consideration for the folks around you. Everybody has the right to be an asshole. My question to them is "Why do you choose to be?"
 10/25/2021 01:05 PM
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JOESTRUMMER

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Garcia : RE : " I had one guy tell me that surfing with a leash is overrated right after he had shot his board right past me. " ------ I think I personally know the individual in question and I can assure you he was neither trying to be an asshole or smart ass for that matter , however his rather rude and flippant comment ( " Leashes are HIGHLY overrated " , I believe it was ) was both uncalled for , somewhat disrespectful and indeed just simply an ill attempt at being humorous . And knowing that particular spot was / is your home break , you most certainly do not need to have some idiot from Cocoa Beach running you over ! My sincerest apologizes ! (Try not to hold it against me ! )

Edited: 10/26/2021 at 06:40 AM by JOESTRUMMER
 10/25/2021 02:52 PM
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garcia

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JOE - I don't and won't. No need to apologize, but, thanks anyway. I'm sorry I allowed my general point to be misunderstood. I didn't intend to call that particular person in that particular situation an asshole. I intended to make the larger point (in general) that I hear too many people screaming about their freedom when all they are really saying is "My rights trump (oops, there's that word) yours." Thanks for the art (again). BTW - I'm always in favor of those who surf leashless AND naked, just not in a crowd. Too many boards flying around and too many flags waving that can easily distract me. (Females surfing in thongs are fine, though.)
 10/25/2021 03:11 PM
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JOESTRUMMER

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Brother G . : No worries , we are good !
 10/25/2021 07:25 PM
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garcia

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Thanks. As I was driving to Orlando this evening, I was thinking how ironic my post was. I might ask myself the same question - "Why did I choose to be an asshole?" (rhetorical question, no need for anybody to weigh in :-)
 10/26/2021 08:45 AM
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chopola

Posts: 1390
Joined Forum: 09/04/2004

.

Edited: 10/26/2021 at 08:48 AM by chopola
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