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Topic Title: Looking to get into big wave surfing
Topic Summary: Sounds like a stay-cation on the north shore is the ticket
Created On: 01/21/2018 04:51 PM
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 03/05/2018 06:15 AM
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Originally posted by: Slackattack

The cost to stay on the North Shore vs cost to stay at Puerto for a season....Mexico can train you up right. Stay there and go out on days your confortable with. By the end of your 2nd season there you'll be a bad a$$ for sure. A month there is like the cost of a less than a week on the N Shore. Unless your friends with Turtle.

Nils Schweitzer cut his teeth there and is a standout in heavy surf, he charges!

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Edited: 03/05/2018 at 09:43 AM by stokedpanda
 03/05/2018 08:38 AM
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Tres Palma's is going off...

 03/05/2018 08:40 AM
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Today would be a good day to give it a try....


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 03/05/2018 10:38 AM
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Yesterday was a good day to push limits, paddled out around 2'ish? at Paraidise alone...Not too bad, just keep forward progress,  keep calm..finally made it out and there he was....another sole out! So wierd, did not see him, no one else even trying to go out but I end up next to a Spanish surfer, he knew little English except "Waves Amazing".  Cool guy, big smiles, traded off a few then he caught a big one and was gone. I actually prefer to be alone in big surf so even better...

About an hour later down around Double Tree the size started getting much bigger (10' faces)...got one bomb, rode it too far and I was done...I set out to do what I wanted, make it out, catch a few big drops, make it back without walking miles back home (Thanks Matt_T for the ride to Paradise!).  GO!!! Big fun drops await, just expect a low wave count. 


To Slackattack...HI  N. Shore can be done on the cheap, N. Shore oceanfront camping 20 mins from the 7 mile miracle for $15.00 night safe/secure very clean.  Stock up at Foodland for beer/supplies.

Edited: 03/05/2018 at 12:45 PM by SurferMic
 03/05/2018 12:04 PM
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Originally posted by: Sector9surf I don't understand the desire for giant surf. Once the surf is a certain size, things become more survival oriented than anything. It's humbling, gratifying, etc..., Maybe done right it's not so dangerous, but it seems to me to be a lot of training with little reward, and situations which you might not get yourself out of. How much time do you need to spend training, plus then bobbing around in giant surf before you get a good ride?


What do you consider big wave surfing? Tahiti and Pipe up to double or triple overhead seem to be surfed regularly by CT pros and are still big waves, but then spots like Nazare and Puerto Escondido or Mavs have a different crew. I wouldn't claim either of those as being easier to surf, but it does seem like more pros would be comfortable surfing Pipe and Tahiti than a wave like Nazare or Mavs, and I assume this is mostly based on skill vs brawn. (Why risk your life?)


Do pro's survival train for waves like Pipe or Tahiti, or you mentioned Tres Palmas? It seems to me that, they just surf a lot and have been in those conditions enough times to be comfortable. I could be way off, but I don't think early pros trained in the same way people think of it as now. I'd imagine you could surf equally well just by surfing those same spots on smaller days until you feel comfortable in the big stuff.


So what is the appeal of big XXL waves?


I started a reply to the above and my battery ran low on my iPad. 

Surfing in Big waves is not for everyone. 6 Foot Hawaiian was scary.  Most of the people I knew in Hawaii where much better in bigger conditions. 

 surfers surfing Big waves that you would never see in Surf video, magazine or even hear of in a surf web sight. Most have regular jobs of one kind on the other. Some have Families the one thing they have in common is the love of surfing big waves. There was this one Teacher and Coach at a High School in the San Diego area. He was a a regular at Swamies and often surfed Big Blacks. When massive swell hit he disappeared across the boarder to a then very secret spot. When word was getting out about Todos Santos. We know that that is where he was going. Todos is not an easy wave to surf it is a shallow rock bottom shifty wave with big boils in the face.  The water is cold. The out and back can be cold and wet. 

I applude anyone that has the desire to Big Waves.  By building your skills getting mentored by one of those that know the wave is the best way to earn your place in the line up. 

Edited: 03/05/2018 at 04:17 PM by artz
 03/08/2018 06:58 PM
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Originally posted by: Julianuribe23 Tres Palma's is going off...

you paddled in brah?

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 03/12/2018 07:13 AM
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Plan B

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So where did Derrick Doerner Jr. surf last week?



2nd Light Forums » Surfing » Looking to get into big wave surfing

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