Hang 10... or as they now say...hit the lip!

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Topic Title: Sand
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Created On: 10/19/2017 11:30 AM
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 11/05/2017 08:15 AM
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Posts: 115
Joined: 01/12/2016

K07, we agree with the beginning of your last post but respectfully disagree on your points in the back half.

We will agree with you that refraction plays a key role at many of the spots you've mentioned, with New Smyrna being a prime example of wave energy bending around on shoals and creating the peaks or "bowls" that you've mentioned.

We disagree that quality swell has been redirected away. We've see in person many, many days over the last several years where significant swell has been interacting directly with the jetty with little to no reflection occurring during that interaction. The only time that significant reflection has occurred has been during the time of year when there has been excess buildup of worm rock on the newer outer pilings. Furthermore, we can model the old and new jetty configurations and definitively prove that the baffle chamber created by the current configuration reduces the total reflected wave energy.

Regarding your last statement "Without the focus and the bowl you can't expect a quality wedge wave to be possible..." you're mixing two unrelated items, both of which aren't required for the peak to function.

Sure, we can debate focus and whether or not swell is being directed away. Regardless of that answer, we know that at least some swell energy is still making it to the jetty and if reflection was occurring as it previously had we should see improved wedges.

On the topic of "the bowl", you mentioned in your previous post that "Back in the day there were barrels to be had but there was that ultra-reliable perfectly groomed angled roundhouse bowl section on every set pretty much.  Then you did a snap and eyed the closeout section, now you hope for one good turn off the drop or the rare doggy door." This was initiated primarily by the reflected wave from the jetty interacting with the next incidental wave and, to a lesser degree, refraction of the combined incidental wave and reflected waves as they continued to break across the sandbar.

Being a knowledgeable person in a relevant field, we'd love to talk to you more about this. Please send us a PM so we can connect!

realsur4, interesting article. I'm sure our friends at Surfrider will be weighing in on this!


The First Peak Project is a 501(c)(3) non-profit public benefit organization whose mission is to restore the legendary surfing wave First Peak at Sebastian Inlet to its former fame and glory.


 11/09/2017 04:40 PM
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Joined: 09/02/2012

Old 1st peak/other world class beach setups = initial/straight swell energy + refracted swell energy

1st peak now = initial/straight swell energy at best OR sapped swell energy to one degree or another

I am highly sceptical how much reflection can do on it's own... in any real world application TONS of energy is lost in reflection.

And an initlal/straight wave isn't going to go from closeout (or even semi-closeout) to perfect bowl just cause a jetty wedge is thrown in right before it breaks.  It has to already be forming well before the lineup via refracted energy sliding in this case north, into the initial energy, and bowling the lines up (or the wedge doesn't line up with a bowl it just bumps along the closeout like I think we've all seen).

Futhermore, wind swells can still get pretty fun at 1st with wedgy bowls but that's not what made it famous (the negative changes in bathymetry aren't felt as much by shorter period swells).  The mechanics that will still work on the right wind swell are not magnified when a good ground swell arrives but rather break down...

Sorry for the delay but this link at least proves my premise on the changes at Monster Hole: http://www.sebastianinletdistrict.com/pdf/State_of_the_Sebastian_Inlet_Report_2013.pdf

Read the last sentence on page 4 then look at those charts on pages 20, 21, and really 22.

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