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Dora Hates You

Such a heavy wave. I can't imagine the beat down for being just a hair off on the drop in.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Never surfed Pipe.

Worst Beat Down I had was at Hanalei Bay. A solid 10-12 foot Florida day. Breaking top to bottom and giving a spit every once in a while. Talked to a local lady in the line up, yep, Should Have Been Here Yesterday. "We wouldn't be sitting where we are now. You and me would be sitting farther out but over/inside at the 2nd or 3rd break. The locals like Titus and his crew would be owning 1st Peak.

First time there. Spooky. So, I got a couple very excellent rides and a nice set came in, and the 'owners' of the day were inside paddling back out so, , , ,

Stroked right in, nice but pretty fucking steep drop. Nice bottom sweep, and I look up out to see what was in front of me. F. U. C. K. !!!! I was about 3 feet 'behind' ground zero. I got smacked! Rag fucking rolled like cheap toilet paper. So, I get up to grab some air and, yep here it comes again. So, I take a big breath and go under to get down a little. But hmmmmmmm. It only about shoulder/head deep, the rock bottom is damn near as flat as poured concrete and in the clear water I see the 'soup roll' dragging the bottom as it is coming at me. I made it but, FUCK THAT. I paddled out further into the bay to get around the break and settled in at the more easy 2nd peak. Dick Brewer got a chuckle out of it when I told him about it that afternoon.

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Dora Hates You