Hang 10... or as they now say...hit the lip!

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Topic Title: Take Every Wave - Laird Documentary
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Created On: 10/08/2017 08:38 AM
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 10/08/2017 08:38 AM
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Captain Obvious

Posts: 2679
Joined: 09/19/2005

This week I rented the movie - had a surprisingly profound effect. Most likely because I'm a forty something who remembers these "events" from reading magazines and whatever press coverage took place. I liked the way it was shot and it seemed to dig deeper than the other stuff I've seen.


Here come the spoilers-

Haven't seen many of those featured in a long time and damn do some of these guys look old now. It's logical but still startling how much damage Laird has incurred over the years. It was hard for me to watch him barely be able to walk around.

The hardest thing to watch was what I picked up as a lack of genuine happiness. Guys who are driven to do incredible things just don't seem to be able to switch that crazy drive off... Ever. It seems Kerbox, Kalama, Lickle, Doerner, and even Chun have it - but not Laird. Not really a new thing - Tiger Woods and other GOAT type figures often suffer from this but for me it was a first in surfing. Kind of amazing and cool KS doesn't suffer from it.

Biggest effect it had on me is to be thankful for having a balanced life. As incredible as Laird's life has been, I wouldn't trade spots.

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A horse walks in to a bar. Bartender says "Why the long face?"
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