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Dora Hates You

What a wave.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

It kinda looks 'too easy'!! Those guys were getting just plain covered and popping out like it was nothing!

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Dora Hates You

A couple of years ago a guy broke his femur there and almost died. Its probably way heavier than the video suggests. I look at these videos and think its like recording a gun shot instead of hearing it.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Legs can break fairly easily. Vero Beach lifeguards had a broken leg at South Beach last year. I watched a tibia-fibula-ankle break in Newport Beach. I had just recovered from a wave-induced sprained ankle. Not a serious injury, but the treatment is to be patient.

Video gives us lots to see and appreciate, but it's better to be somewhere in person, and in the water, if feasible and prudent.

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wavewatcher - >ww - >wavewatcher, again

Edited: 01/29/2025 at 10:26 AM by Wavewatcher

The level of surfing has gone exponential. 30 years ago there would have been four people in the water. Three of them would have been expats and the fourth was some poor slob they conned into surfing with them. Now the resident population rips. Surfing truly is a global sport.

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I was right.