http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YQBep339PGM

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Nice.

I found the book slightly depressing for some reason. I think he was too good at expressing what is gone is gone forever.

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I was right.

Finished reading it at Piha.

Book is best surfing writing hands down. Video shows artists should stick to what they r Great at: vid is just painful bad.

I really liked the book, although I have one major annoyance with it: the dude's as egotistical as they come. Note how even when he's "wrong" in the book, he casts himself as right. Drives me nuts after 300 pages. Also, not a shred of humor. Other than this, the writing is as solid as surf prose has ever come.

Great read for sure.....but I will take In Search of Captain Zero all day long....to this day probably the best surf read I have encountered.

Not in the same writing style or talent level, but a real story with a real ending. I could relate - Native Moments by Nic Schuck - Book review

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http://www.crsurf.com ~ CR Surf Travel Company

http://www.vacationsbygreg.com
Instagram - @crsurf

Edited: 12/25/2021 at 06:52 AM by GREG

3rdworld gave me a copy and I enjoyed it. I agree with Cole. I got nostalgic for a time and place before I was alive. I think his writing is excellent but I do get how as a person he was lacking. To write so well and still have that blind spot
Is proof that the art can be separated from the artists.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

In the vid, the fellow talking by the fence without the hat looks, to me, like Rusty Miller-60"s big wave surfer who moved to Australia years ago. Looked like him surfing in some shots also. As to the writing, I found it more heartfelt than egotistical - a good read. Unlike Weisbecker (Captain Zero) who I found so pretentiously egotistical that I couldn't wait to finish. Funny how writers can leave such different impressions - guess that's why it's called art...

I felt like Weissbecker was a terrible person and though he wrote well, that could not salvage the book for me. The lBarbarian days book to me is a great read. It is an intellectual look at our shared obsession that I think transcends the author.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Edited: 12/25/2021 at 08:03 PM by johnnyboy