***** ******

Surfed with Joe Twombly at a secret spot. Only three of us made it out. I dropped into my first wave, waaaaay overhead, with my 7" fin on my 9'6" CC Rider. Went to pull a hard backside left and, sure enough, the fin let go. Looked up and saw it breaking over my head with me in the pit. Decided it might be a better idea to draw out my turns more after that. What a day.

Oh, yeah, and a classic Surfer mag title - "Trick or treat, it's 20 feet." Again, what a day.

Curt Fonger and The Rutledge Inn, memories!

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"The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who do not have it." - George Bernard Shaw

Just massive amounts of water moving that day. My fins were buzzing from going so fast.

I blew off my Master's exam to go surf this swell in St. Aug. Macking for sure. two friends broke boards that day.

Tom, how about our little car wreck at 2nd Light!

I thought you might bring that up ! That was definitely , without a doubt, 99% my fault , for distracting you from the wheel , to watch the giant set waves looming outside way , way over the dune line . And like a good stalwart friend , I promptly bailed on you with my board and left you to deal with the aftermath and mess all alone ! What a guy ! ( I think you told me that woman infact , actually tried to sued you , for her non existent injures? ) How much did I inadvertently manage to drive up your insurance rates ?

Edited: 10/30/2021 at 07:13 PM by JOESTRUMMER

Watched it from pump house. Biggest waves I have ever seen.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Made it out 3 of 4 attempts first day of the swell: Crystal lakes (Chris' Break) Ave. B, and 2nd light. Lots of surfers everywhere I went sitting on the beach with their mouths hanging open just staring at it. Several days of super surf. Went to Doug Wright the next week and ordered a gun so I'd be ready for the NEXT time. It's been 30 years and never saw it like that here again. Lesson learned.......when you get it, go for it!

I couldn't find a place small enough to paddle out between BW and RC's on Halloween afternoon, so I just sat in the peanut gallery at RC's and watched the carnage that day.

A friend was trying to make it over from O'ville after school, and decided he couldn't get to RC's before dark (no cell phones for updates), so he stopped and surfed Jetty Park.

When he reached my place that night, he was pissed that my crew over-called it (he said JP was 2-3') and was saying he might drive back home to O'ville, but stayed anyway.

All of us paddled out early for perfection at Bucs the next morning, and nobody was disappointed. I caught a good one, but it was the scariest I had ever caught in FL.

Family moved back to Long Island the year before.....I cut class and surfed Gilgo Beach for that one.... called my after school job from a pay phone in the parking lot to say I'd be late because my friends car broke down (as 20kt offshores are blowing into the phone)

Not bad actually, she got $7,000 off a 10/20k liability policy. This told me she was faking it given she didn't even get the full 10k.

Your head broke my windshield from the inside out, at that point you were excused for the day!

Since then I have always carried 100/300k.

And, you are still my friend! At least I got the morning session, albeit on a 6'5" on 20 foot faces. Meanwhile Bill Hartley was riding a 9' rhino chaser killing it.

Edited: 10/31/2021 at 02:53 PM by rc

Again, "Trick or treat - it's 20 ft" What a classic title. Couldn't believe we didn't make the Surfer centerfold, though. When is that ever going to happen again? It was a brutal paddle out (esp on my 9-6 CC Rider, no duckdiving there, just slip off, grab the nose, pull down with both arms and HANG ON), not sure I could make it today. BTW rc, you have glassed a couple of my Richie Buehnn's over the years that were modeled on that Claude, red surfer stripe, each one thicker and wider than the last one (just like me, thicker and wider each time). Good glass jobs, they last 8-10 years and they do take a beating.

Should have added, They may take a beating, but, the glass jobs only show minor pressure dings even after 10 years of being ridden in all conditions by a 230 lb surfer. Great glass jobs.

RE : Your head broke my windshield from the inside out, at that point you were excused for the day! ---- ( I have always been rather " Hard Headed " , although I did in fact sustain a sprained wrist in the accident , is it too late to file a claim ? ) And a 6 ' 5 ?? , Something tells me you might have had a board or Two slightly a bit very, very longer in your quiver ! Just saying !

Edited: 10/31/2021 at 05:56 PM by JOESTRUMMER

And a very Happy Halloween to , Bro Garcia , Randy , Cole , Greensleves , CFLD , Johnny boy and all the crew that I may have left out.

And you too, Mr. Tom! What a ride it has been and continues on!

Edited: 10/31/2021 at 05:42 PM by rc

So was Kech!!

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"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.

Edited: 11/02/2021 at 06:47 PM by LBLarry

My apologies, yes Kech was there ripping then as he does now.