Had loads of waves yesterday in the head high choppy range. Fun fun fun. Going now again. If this keeps up I will be in great shape for the pilgrimage to Costa.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

I paddled out at hightower this afternoon. its pretty big. All closed out. Very persistent inside break that made the paddle difficult. Glad I got some exercise out of it!

Jensen was big. Like a foot or two overhead on the sets. They were pretty fat and many closeouts but sectiony on occasion too. The paddle out was not easy and caught on the inside twice. I'm napping very shortly.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Wind is blowing from the West this morning! Yeah for Monday surf! Heading out soon.

Everyone, their brother and many of their sisters were out this morning. Felt like a weekend. Still got the goods. So much fun this morning.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Buoy dropping like a rock this monday afternoon. Prob not surviving tomorrow morning's high tide.

I won the battle, but the sargassum won the war

The seaweed is something else!