Hang 10... or as they now say...hit the lip!

2nd Light Forums
Decrease font size
Increase font size
Topic Title: This is why I hate rocky breaks.
Topic Summary:
Created On: 03/05/2021 12:30 PM
Linear : Threading : Single : Branch
Topic Tools Topic Tools
View topic in raw text format. Print this topic.
 03/05/2021 12:30 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


SlimyBritches

Posts: 4969
Joined Forum: 01/08/2016

My first experience in Rocky breaks was at Matapalo CR. It was before the land slide in 2000 that brought the beach up 10' and out 20 yards. It let me catch a head high easy wave at first. Then, when I thought it was an easy break, sent a sneaker that augured me into the bottom. It was the 1st wave of a 5 wave set. I found that it was trure. It was like a machine made wave. Each wave of the set was exactly like the first. I never went back out there again.

http://www.cnn.com/2021/03/04/...4qERPRx0rlx7MrExO5qxB8

Edited: 03/05/2021 at 12:33 PM by SlimyBritches
 03/05/2021 01:20 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


Kimo63

Posts: 476
Joined Forum: 04/22/2012

If you surf big enough and long enough , you start to ask yourself these questions . I'm in no means his league , but after a couple of life altering waves that is one of the reasons I moved back from Oahu. it is truly a humbling experience
 03/05/2021 01:34 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


SlimyBritches

Posts: 4969
Joined Forum: 01/08/2016

I camped in front of Matapalo for a few days in 01. I finally got the nerve to go out again. The sets just stopped and everyone started paddling out. As soon as my foot touched the water, this thing jacked up and slammed me into the dry sand. I apologized and promised never to set foot in that water again. As side note, I had always thought the worst death was being eaten by ants. I was hanging in the hammock, after that incident, guarding the site, when the vegetation started moving. All the critters around were running towards the jungle. It was fuggin' ants. There was nothing around me but an undulating mass of blackness and a melon we had spiked with Guaro. I had spray deet on the trees and wrapped duct tape around the hammock ropes when I hung it. 5 minutes later they were gone.
 03/05/2021 02:34 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


Cole

Posts: 51248
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

a melon we had spiked with Guaro.

There were no ants. lolz

I damn near broke my neck pulling into a four foot sand grinder. The wave took my feet up over my head and pile drove me into the sandbar. I still have issues with it to this day.

-------------------------
So long and thanks for all the fish.
 03/05/2021 02:58 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


johnnyboy

Posts: 18972
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

I left the skin on my forehead, nose, cheek snd chin on the sand bar in Dominical. I could have broken my neck. I Almost did. I kept taking waves later and deeper and talked myself into the belief that skills were improving with every day there and that deep heavy tube I dropped late into and made it out with the sneeze of the wave as it broke was imminent. My friend was taking pictures. Kodak courage. It's real.

-------------------------

"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 03/06/2021 06:06 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


SlimyBritches

Posts: 4969
Joined Forum: 01/08/2016

Almost missed my flight out one year. Afternoon flight so we had a session at Tulin Playa Hermosa. Early morning. Sweet head high waves, tide going out. The waves got bigger and hollower, and, what we were calling close out perfection. The wife waved at the allotted time so I was going to take one in. It was double over head and I finally had to go. Took the hit and ended up standing in shin high water with more waves coming. I grabbed the board and started running the 100 yards to the beach. I'd get 10' wave would hit me and drag me back 20'. Got to the airport about 10 minute before the plane door closed This was pre 9/11, we threw our crap at the desk, yelled for them to hold the plane and was in a seat with black sand in my hair and on my feet.
 03/06/2021 09:04 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


Bamboo

Posts: 6668
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Dominical can be a board breaking bastard of a wave (and they have the broken boards nailed up to prove it), but when it is right it is a lot of fun. Some of my best memories of CR are surfing Dominical and staying at the Rio Mar and having breakfast with the pet sloth, Josephine.

Tulin on the other hand has horrible memories for me. Went out on a good sized day and after getting our collective asses kicked the group I was with started picking off waves for the long ride in. After getting to the beach and waiting a bit we were missing one and getting really worried. We all were scanning the surf the best we could but the lines were big and there was a lot of junk in the water. Spotted his surfboard by itself. Went to get the board and he washed up and crawled out on the beach about 10 long minutes later. This guy is a really good surfer, but it was a bear of a day. He lost his board close to the outside and the swim to the beach nearly did him in. I never went back there.


-------------------------
If I should ever die, God forbid, let this be my epitaph: THE ONLY PROOF HE NEEDED FOR THE EXISTENCE OF GOD WAS MUSIC - KV
 03/07/2021 08:17 AM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


GREG

Posts: 1533
Joined Forum: 08/20/2003



-------------------------
http://www.crsurf.com ~ CR Surf Travel Company

http://www.vacationsbygreg.com
Instagram - @crsurf
1% for the Planet Member
 03/07/2021 02:10 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


pompano

Posts: 5719
Joined Forum: 01/06/2005

hmmm, there are many rocks in costa I've had the opportunity to skirt by, land on, and get uncomfortable with. Above and below the water Matapalo, Pavones, Cabo Blanco, Roca Loca, Dominicalito, Hermosa near the north end (big rock), Playa Negra, Little Hawaii, Avellanas south end (and the other reef waay out that not many people go to), Avellanas at the boca (rolled over that one a few times), and salsa brava for the east coasters. Oddly enough, it was multiple wave hold downs at Tulin that really got me almost drowned.
 03/08/2021 05:56 AM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


SlimyBritches

Posts: 4969
Joined Forum: 01/08/2016

Speaking of Domincal, Is The San Clemente restaurant still there. The owner, "Spicy" Mike is a bit of an azz. One year, I noticed his ice machine was making thin cubes. I asked him about it while eating and told him I'd look at it. He had thrown away an essential piece that kept water from spraying out. I fabricated a new curtain, then left. Next day I saw him and his wife gave me the bill for the night before. 8,800 colones, 20 bucks at that time. I wrote on the bill, after subtracting my fee, Para reparando machnina de hielo. They never got over it. It would have cost more than that to get a Tico to drive there and fix it.
 03/09/2021 05:58 AM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


TATTOO74

Posts: 2320
Joined Forum: 10/26/2005

I didn't even have to leave the county for my first rocky bottom broken board encounter. I can't remember which hurricane swell it was.. My buddy and I surfed that first boardwalk N of the Pineda Cswy. It was the only spot that was breaking up the mile long white wall lines. Well we hop in, the water was up to the dunes, I hop on my brand new BAT and start to paddle out and the water sucks out and my buddy and I are literally dry docked on a pile of rocks. New board is toast.. Didn't even get to surf!
 03/09/2021 07:15 AM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


RiddleMe

Posts: 4463
Joined Forum: 07/21/2011

Originally posted by: TATTOO74

I didn't even have to leave the county for my first rocky bottom broken board encounter. I can't remember which hurricane swell it was.. My buddy and I surfed that first boardwalk N of the Pineda Cswy. It was the only spot that was breaking up the mile long white wall lines. Well we hop in, the water was up to the dunes, I hop on my brand new BAT and start to paddle out and the water sucks out and my buddy and I are literally dry docked on a pile of rocks. New board is toast.. Didn't even get to surf!


Shallow and exposed rocks around there. Not surprised at all.

 03/09/2021 03:58 PM
User is offline View Users Profile Print this message


Cole

Posts: 51248
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

I chipped a fin and dinged my rail doing a bottom turn at Lum's one low tide day.

-------------------------
So long and thanks for all the fish.
Statistics
146183 users are registered to the 2nd Light Forums forum.
There are currently 0 users logged in to the forum.

FuseTalk Basic Edition - © 1999-2021 FuseTalk Inc. All rights reserved.

Hey Matt B ... How the hell o are you ??? :)