Hang 10... or as they now say...hit the lip!

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Topic Title: WHEN YOU SEE ONE BREAK OUT AT AVALANCHE .......
Topic Summary: ......YOU START PADDLING !
Created On: 02/24/2021 11:53 AM
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 02/24/2021 11:53 AM
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JOESTRUMMER

Posts: 372
Joined Forum: 03/24/2012

 02/24/2021 02:37 PM
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Kimo63

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Joined Forum: 04/22/2012

This is Big Haleiwa " You never stop paddling ". Matty Lui was about 13 when lived there
 02/25/2021 06:50 AM
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johnnyboy

Posts: 19154
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It's 15'. "I usually ride a 5'3" but I am taking my 6'6." Well there you have it. I usually ride a 6'8" but in that would be riding a 7'6" bonzer. And lucky to make it out.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 02/25/2021 07:49 AM
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Central Floridave

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cool vid. thnx for link.
 02/25/2021 01:33 PM
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theglide

Posts: 9008
Joined Forum: 08/06/2003

Thx for the great video JS!
 02/26/2021 05:11 AM
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Cole

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Those two are toying with those lumpy beasts.

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So long and thanks for all the fish.
 02/26/2021 02:10 PM
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Kimo63

Posts: 481
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Haleiwa looks all fun and easy , don't let that place fool you. It's a freight train right , with a current that rips you out to the peak, so you have to keep paddling to stay to the right of the peak . So when you see "A" breaking you better put it in gear or take one on the head.
 02/26/2021 03:54 PM
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JOESTRUMMER

Posts: 372
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I love your prrior quote : " You never STOP paddling !" That says it all !
 02/26/2021 04:14 PM
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johnnyboy

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When I was there, I thought Haleiwa was perfect. The Hawaiians didn't feel like bothering with fast overhead slabs. I felt like I just exited a desert and stumbled into an all you can eat buffet. It was small by Hawaiian standards. I surfed all day. I felt like a small day in haieiwa was worth that miserable flight from Miami, then Detroit, then San Francisco snd finally Honolulu. For a cheap ticket, I paid. My fins were smashed flat on my board. Delta laughed at me. I ended up at surf and sea and put my board in for repairs and bought a used board there. I was there for three weeks. I ended up leaving the repaired board there on consignment and taking the semi gun home. Got the check from surf snd sea three months later. $135. Not bad.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

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