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Topic Title: Native Moments - Surf Travel Novel
Topic Summary: based in Costa Rica
Created On: 02/08/2021 12:32 PM
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 02/08/2021 12:32 PM
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GREG

Posts: 1566
Joined Forum: 08/20/2003

I just finished this book and wrote the following review of it. You can relate if you had visited Costa Rica to surf in the early 90's.

Book Review - Native Moments by Nic Schuck

-------------------------
http://www.crsurf.com ~ CR Surf Travel Company

http://www.vacationsbygreg.com
Instagram - @crsurf
 02/09/2021 06:08 AM
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Central Floridave

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I'll look that book up. My first trip to Costa Rica was in 1992 with a bunch of post-college buddies. We surfed Salsa Brava (caribbean), Jaco, Dominical, Pavones and others. We didn't even know the names of the places we were at as it was pre-internet. Just drive then pull up to the beach and check it. Dominical was a sleepy town full of beatniks and squatters (what's changed since?).... The roads were horrible back then. Kidney punch highways everywhere. The drive to Puerto Viejo was done at 2am and we drove through all those banana plantations not knowing where we were. Found broken bridges, forged streams, and made it to Salsa Bravo right before dawn. We also stayed with and met the character in "Searching for Capt Zero" who lived in puerto Viejo. His name was Richard. He gave me a letter to mail when I got back to florida as he said his mom lived in MelBeach. No mail service back then. He was an interesting character. Wonder if he is still alive. There were not many surfers at the time and the local Ticos hadn't taken up the sport yet. My friend on that trip moved and bought 30+ acres on the side of the mountain a few years later and still lives there. Thanks for the book review. I'm sure Tamarindo shares the similar history of all of Costa Rica surfing history.
 02/09/2021 07:15 AM
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tingo

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How can you forget the sign " hamburgers as big as your fuc--- Head" How about "Mota Loca" on the flange of one of those big trees. Can you image being able to drive the renta truck to Little Hawaii on the beach from Avellanas? The "Cantina" with a generator keeping the beers cold...
 02/09/2021 10:46 AM
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johnnyboy

Posts: 25071
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Pablo Picsssos!! Hamburguesas as big as your cabasa?

My first trip was 97'. I felt like I discovered the place. I surfed most places alone or close to it. Washed out bridges, cow paths marked as roads on maps that were half accurate at best. Spent a good part of most days lost and learned to accept that where you are is the best place to be anyway. Always drank imperial and flor de cana. Learned how to fix cuts with superglue and all manner of first aid. Learned that when you cross a stream that's too deep, the rented RAV4 floats and the momentum will get you to where it's shallow enough to catch and you can keep going. It was so much more sketchy back then. If you broke down, you were on your own. If you got hurt, you were on your own. If you found a perfect wave south of Dominical with a river hugging a mountain emptying out and creating a deep spot that made for an absolutely perfect tube for an entire day and only five people ever showed up, you were on your own.

-------------------------

"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 02/09/2021 12:23 PM
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CurtisEflush

Posts: 841
Joined Forum: 09/28/2012

First trip there in 1991, shortly after the big earthquake. Loved that one-car "ferry" across the river to Pavones. So many "characters" down there back then.

FWIW, I read a book that I think was called, simply, "Gold." I can't find it now. A Tico thought he had heard of a Spanish translation called "Busqueda de Oro," but I haven't found it either.

It was about some gringo hunting for gold in the hills near Golfito. He had one story about a couple Tica prostitutes sitting on a big rock, drinking guaro and having a farting contest.
 02/09/2021 05:23 PM
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SlimyBritches

Posts: 6461
Joined Forum: 01/08/2016

Originally posted by: johnnyboy

Pablo Picsssos!! Hamburguesas as big as your cabasa?



My first trip was 97'. I felt like I discovered the place. I surfed most places alone or close to it. Washed out bridges, cow paths marked as roads on maps that were half accurate at best. Spent a good part of most days lost and learned to accept that where you are is the best place to be anyway. Always drank imperial and flor de cana. Learned how to fix cuts with superglue and all manner of first aid. Learned that when you cross a stream that's too deep, the rented RAV4 floats and the momentum will get you to where it's shallow enough to catch and you can keep going. It was so much more sketchy back then. If you broke down, you were on your own. If you got hurt, you were on your own. If you found a perfect wave south of Dominical with a river hugging a mountain emptying out and creating a deep spot that made for an absolutely perfect tube for an entire day and only five people ever showed up, you were on your own.


We found a place like that North of Dominical where the mountain jutted out 1/2 mile and rights would peel for a little too far for me to walk back. That's why we'd always take the wife. There was only 2 of us out.

Edited: 02/09/2021 at 05:24 PM by SlimyBritches
 02/10/2021 08:24 AM
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pumphouse

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Hey Curtis, I read that book it was called ORO, which translates to Gold. CAnt find it anywhere, it was really good and explained life on the OSA during the wild west times.
My first visit was 94 or 95, I think. Went to Tamarindo, Dominical, made base camp at Playa Zancudo for some trips to Pavones. So fun!

-------------------------
"The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who do not have it." - George Bernard Shaw
 02/10/2021 11:16 AM
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CurtisEflush

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Excellent recall, pumphouse, thanks! I'm pretty sure this is the one:
https://www.amazon.com/Oro-Eng...zia-Zyke/dp/0312000936
 02/10/2021 01:55 PM
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LBLarry

Posts: 4716
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Originally posted by: tingo

How can you forget the sign " hamburgers as big as your fuc--- Head"

How about "Mota Loca" on the flange of one of those big trees.
Can you image being able to drive the renta truck to Little Hawaii on the beach from Avellanas? The "Cantina" with a generator keeping the beers cold...


Drove it many a time in a rental whip in the late 80's - early90's. That was back when you had to drive through several rivers/creeks, park in the field, and walk 1/2 mile to Negra.




-------------------------
"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.
 02/10/2021 02:05 PM
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LBLarry

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In about 85 I made friends with Fea Shaw's brother Les "Manos" Shaw ..... he was living at an extremely consistent beach break on the pacific coast. It was also within close striking distance ( relatively speaking for CR in those times ) to several outstanding spots.
He used to get so tired of surfing alone, that he would use the ONLY public phone in the nearby bar to call us and BEG us to come down.
The spot/town was Nosara.

-------------------------
"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.
 02/10/2021 03:51 PM
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tpapablo

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This brings back memories, for sure. I remember going to the Mal Pais area in the mid-90's. It felt like I was in one of those old African explorer movies getting there. But when you got to the surf, you were by yourself. Lot different now.

-------------------------
I :heart; Q
 02/10/2021 05:35 PM
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Cole

Posts: 68176
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

We took a shortcut to Golfito to avoid the bad roads and ended up in the middle of the jungle well after dark. I hear the road to Pavones is nothing but smooth sailing these days.

-------------------------
I was right.
 02/10/2021 06:40 PM
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johnnyboy

Posts: 25071
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We went through what seemed like days of palm oil farms. Horrible roads. Bad bridges. Top speed 35mph.

-------------------------

"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 02/11/2021 05:27 AM
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TATTOO74

Posts: 2407
Joined Forum: 10/26/2005

It was early 90's when we were there and I vaguely remember some details. I remember a "restaurant" in Hermosa where the waitresses all wore old Hooters uniforms and served those old expired glass soda bottles of Sprite. It was the only thing I could drink other than beer that my stomach wouldn't explode. The road to Dominical was dirt and very bumpy. We found that the faster you drove the smoother the ride was, but it made it very difficult to smoke the J. We got lost a few times on our way down, and I remember a broken down school bus that we passed a few times and every time we did the kids threw rocks at our car. We stayed at a place that was still being built next to a river mouth. The room had banana spiders hanging from the ceiling as big as your head. The restaurant down in Dominical I remember having all the broken surf boards hanging off the ceiling and the waitress was smoking hot. Waves were all time and still some of the best I have surfed to this day. The banana daquiris at the Terrazas hotel bar were amazing as well.
 02/11/2021 03:20 PM
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GREG

Posts: 1566
Joined Forum: 08/20/2003

On my first trip there in '96 we ran into a group of Ecology students from FIT and ended up partying with them. We surfed Isla Uvita right after Hurricane Cesar, ran into Johnny Futch who showed us around the Caribbean side. Then in San Jose drove up Volcan Irazu and randomly ran into Carol Holland from Surf Express. Almost slid off the mountain on the down, listening to 'Smooth Operator' by Sade. It was definitely an adventure back then - lava was still shooting out of Volcan Arenal.



-------------------------
http://www.crsurf.com ~ CR Surf Travel Company

http://www.vacationsbygreg.com
Instagram - @crsurf
 02/11/2021 04:23 PM
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pompano

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good times for sure. loved the scouting back in the day. Watched pablo build his place, met him them, stayed there a few times, then peak out and drift away from the wife. Golfed with him a few times toward the end as my buddy from Daytona was the golf super at Hacienda Pinilla when that place went up. i need to pay my property taxes for my property near his old place. haven't been down in two years.
 02/11/2021 06:19 PM
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LBLarry

Posts: 4716
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Originally posted by: GREG

On my first trip there in '96 we ran into a group of Ecology students from FIT and ended up partying with them. We surfed Isla Uvita right after Hurricane Cesar, ran into Johnny Futch who showed us around the Caribbean side. Then in San Jose drove up Volcan Irazu and randomly ran into Carol Holland from Surf Express. Almost slid off the mountain on the down, listening to 'Smooth Operator' by Sade. It was definitely an adventure back then - lava was still shooting out of Volcan Arenal.


Futch on the lose in CR .... danger danger Will Robenson, danger danger!!



-------------------------
"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.
 02/12/2021 03:06 AM
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StirfryMcflurry

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Originally posted by: TATTOO74 We found that the faster you drove the smoother the ride was .
LOL, found that out in Nica.
 02/12/2021 06:47 AM
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SlimyBritches

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Originally posted by: tpapablo

This brings back memories, for sure. I remember going to the Mal Pais area in the mid-90's. It felt like I was in one of those old African explorer movies getting there. But when you got to the surf, you were by yourself. Lot different now.

That's about the same time I started going to MP. Did you ever stay at Zanaida's lefts?. We showed up at night and she was reluctant to rent us a cabina until she saw my wife. I was one of the best trips.
A Tico king pin was building me a technical school there.
I helped out a drunken German who turned out to be an heir to a Mercedes fortune. He gave us a house. BUT, while we were there the last time, the estranged son in law was sniffing around and my grandson was conceived. A month after, God gave me my Refrig company. And to make doubly sure I'd never go back, my Grandson was born on the wife's b'day. From the vids on You Tube, M.P now reminds me of Jaco.

Edited: 02/12/2021 at 06:48 AM by SlimyBritches
 02/12/2021 09:45 AM
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MR

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Joined Forum: 08/06/2007

First time there was in '83. So many wild memories and stories. We actually got taken to Ollies Point in a speedboat by a local Big $$ individual. We also stayed in the shitbag building that sits right on Boca Barranca, and it was at the time about $3 US a night. The only toilet was a hole in the concrete floor. We surfed the Pacific and Caribbean, and caught the river mouth in Tamarindo what must have been all-time, because I never saw it break that size/quality again in any of my trips there. I surfed Salsa pre and post Earthquake. We also just missed Tom Curren, who was there visiting his dad, and who the locals called in spanish something that resembled "huge spray". The locals loved to nickname people, and came up with a couple good ones for our group. One guy was Tarzana, due to being built like the Rock, and another was "KaKa', because he made the mistake of eating meat from a roadside stand, and well, you can figure out the rest.
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