..is a different kind of human being. If he's a human being in the first place? This video sure doesn't help answer the question.



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I was right.

That was fantastic! Still killing it and the quirkiness/creativity on full display.

Oooooh look at the twinnies! Love that winged swallow. Yes!

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add a signature since I'm here in profile anyway

Great stuff!!
Always loved his surfing style sooooooo much!!

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"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.

He's still man.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

This ^ !! Being from out there back when ride'n new age SD Keel fish'es, I'm partial to the area so cain't help dig'n this as much for the quality of the,, Drone Pilot! Couldn't help really like the movement from up high down right into the pocket timed so well it had me go'in- "whOa, nice!" and thems 'Points'-- oh mang~ Gracias mate!!

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ola ~

I think it's funny that he fills those hours when he's not surfing by playing his keyboard.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

...and climbing gnarly rock mountains barefoot.

It's Big Lebowski-ish, but in real life. I love it.



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I was right.

I heard probably the same rumors as everyone else that he was a irredeemable alcoholic. You can't surf and hike like that and be that kind of a drunk.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

To play on dingpatch's post - Soul: A whole video devoid of flapping and air.

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add a signature since I'm here in profile anyway

The perfect bottom turns are pure magic. The timing is pure genius. Not to mention that the wave looks gnarly as eff at size.

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I was right.

Curren most definitely has "Soul" and still rips. His style is timeless. That video made me dizzy though in more ways than one.

Tom has always had style for days. His attitude towards surfing has certainly diminished. "Tube, sigh" "Chandelier, ahh go away" If there's something, somewhat older pro surfers get sick of its tasty waves and gold digging women. They clearly resort to climbing mountains, playing instruments and getting hitched lol. Nothing wrong with growing old when you've surfed every spot known to mankind.

He seems pretty happy.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

I was a beach lifeguard at Pacific Missile Test Center Point Mugu in California (Oxnard area) for several years. The waves there are incredible. You've probably never heard of it because it's a highly secure Navy Base (see video below of Dane at that exact break on the base). One summer after surfing 25 days in a row there I was assigned the lifeguard stand right near the pictured break on July 4th. The surf was gnarly and Tommy and an Oxnard local Curtis Caldwell destroyed south swell peaks for about two hours with locals and me in the stand just watching in awe. Pitted in hissing spitting barrels and so casual. It was perfect watching him bond with the gnar gnar bro.

I saw him a lot around that time in Ventura like early 80s and he would surf mini heats and do conditioning. He would ride a wave go to the beach, run up the beach and around something he'd planted there and then go out and repeat. A competitive animal really.

Then there was the weird magic he had, it was like he could be sitting in the lineup and waves would just appear where he was. Crazy.



Edited: 02/12/2021 at 07:04 AM by Greensleeves