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Topic Title: Two simultaneous swells, different periods Topic Summary: Created On: 05/02/2020 05:59 PM |
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05/02/2020 05:59 PM
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I was counting the time between waves recently and it matched up with the dominant swell period the buoys were showing (7-8 seconds). I'm curious what happens when you have two different swells hitting the beach at the same time with two significantly different periods.
Let's say you have swell #1 from the NE at 13 seconds and swell #2 from the SE at 7 seconds. Will some sets have waves spaced 13 seconds apart (those from swell #1) and other sets with waves spaced 7 seconds apart (those from swell #2)? I've never really counted to check but intuitively I don't think I've ever noticed this kind of difference in the wave spacing between different sets on any given day. |
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05/03/2020 06:17 AM
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Yes, but it can be difficult to separate out the two swells by eye. They will most likely have different directions as well. It is fairly common around here to have a small short period SE wind swell due to local wind mixed with larger longer period NE ground swell. This will appear as a cross chop bump moving through the wave and can be pretty frustrating.
------------------------- "If I say it's safe to surf this beach, captain, then it's safe to surf this beach!" |
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05/03/2020 10:01 AM
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We have all seen days were one set was fun and the next set sucked. I've always attributed it do a different water level and currents from the first set, but it does kinda make sense that it's two different swells.
I have seen a mix of swells turn long crap lines into fun peaks, but that is as rare as hen's teeth in Cocoa Beach. ------------------------- I was right. |
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