The passing of a legend

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Dora Hates You

Absolute LEGEND ! First trip up coast in 1971 (When I was only 10! ) to Santa Barbra to surf Rincon and El Capitain , huge buzz on the beach ------- Greenough was in town still promoting the " Innermost limits of pure fun " , missed him TWICE surfing at Rincon by a matter of minutes . Two days latter at El Cap still bumming that I missed witnessing George surf at " The Con " , along comes Mr Greenough , WITH a certain BOB COOPER and a very , very stoned JOHN PECK ! Now you might think that George and John (My personal hero ) , might have held sway , but it was indeed a Mr Bob Cooper who dictated what was going down at El Cap on that particular day . That session is forever etched into my brain ----- not a cloud in the sky, 4 to 5 foot absolute mirror Cali glass ( Were talking Ron Stoner Ranch Glass ! ) He differently out classed both George and John with sheer , agility , speed and footwork !!! ( John Peck : by the way dominated in his own right--- and was also passing out free Peyote Buttons on the beach to anybody interested ! ) Now I never had the privilege to see Kemp Aberg , Lance Carson or Mr Dora surf Rincon or El Cap , but I imagine it would be quite similar to Mr Coopers display on that day . RIP

Edited: 02/20/2020 at 01:39 PM by JOESTRUMMER

I'm sure they were trying to copy you just like I tried. And failed.

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Matt B :)

That last wave on the video when he picked up the other's board and continued to surf with it is funny. R.I.P.

Matty B ! aka The King of " Rock Gardens " ! Thanks for the kind sentiment ! Right back at ya ! Sending lots of love and positive energy your way . If you go outside you should feel it !

Edited: 02/20/2020 at 11:56 PM by JOESTRUMMER

Had lunch with Pila earlier this month, , , , ,

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Dora Hates You

Ah , enough said ....