What, do you do a giant boneless to get back out of the water once you jump in?

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I was right.

Catch a wave and walk up. The surfing part is on the N side. During the rainy season, a river dumps into it.

So suck rock has been.good. It's about two feet overhead and the wave is not fast but it's not slow.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Double overhead today. Almost didn't make it out. 30 minutes fighting relentless sets. Got two waves all morning. One was good. The other was a monster that opened up for me for a couple of hundred yards as fast as I can surf. Rode a Bing bonzer synchronizer that is 7'4 and still could have used more foam. The biggest wave was my best wave and I don't typically equate size with quality. Coming home tomorrow. I'm tired. My shoulder feels like there is an ice pick in it and I had to spend some unexpected cash on an x Ray for the spill on the back road to cabuya.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Did you surf Cedros? That's a dicey wave breaking off a lava shelf.

No. It wasn't really holding the wave. We surfed cabuya with two surf schools and a hundred others. It's a perfect wave that came in two wave sets every five minutes that everyone thought was theirs. I got a few but it was frustrating.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

I'm in Nicaragua right now. It's good. Mark Healy/Dan Malloy at outer reef yesterday. Offshore all the time. Popoyo Surf Lodge!

Glad you scored some waves! Looking forward to the pics and drone footage!

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Time and tide wait for no one.....

The drone footage never happened. My son hurt his wrist on the atv going down the back mountain road. Then there was the threat of rain. Then it was too early so I let him sleep, then he wanted to surf too and and then it collected dust. His one session was so far out because it was his first try. Turns out it was our only try. We lugged that thing all that way for nothing. Maybe next time.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Johhnyboy, when you say you surfed Cabuya, do you mean the island?

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"The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who do not have it." - George Bernard Shaw

lugged that thing all around.... kinda like my fishing equipment...lol

Not the cemetery island. It's about a half a kilometer north. It's the point furthest out.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

The right at Cedros is dicey. The left is a super fun and easy wave. Surfed it two weeks ago at head high plus. The surf school guy pushing his clients in to waves was a downer though.

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He's there everyday too. He actually succeeded in posting up on the peak and told us get out of his way because he was trying to make a living. That went over badly.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

What do you mean "it went over badly"? What happened Senor'~ por favor?

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ola ~

I took a wave he pushed one of his pupils into and they went straight so I went right. He paddled over to cut me off and establish his perimeter. Then my buddy took a wave in the same area. He then brought over the other instructor. They spread out. Then some tico kid that rips tick tacked past them at light speed. Keep in mind there are two wave sets every five minutes so after these events, all parties had plenty of time to give dirty looks, stare and talk shit. I wisely decided to paddle away but to little avail. The instructor seemed determined to paddle over to me to cut me off to prove some point but he never got there. I got a particularly long, soft right that I took in out frustration. I watched two other people "cut off" his students.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

I saw a young kid run across the shelf and jump into a left, standing on his board in mid air.
At the river in cabuya is really perilous. At low tide there's pillars of rocks spattered up and down that area. I stayed at Fernandos just across the bridge for an extended time during raining season. I surfed before I saw the bottom then decided just to go over the mountain to Mal pais.

Suck rock is where I have had most of the best waves of my life.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Going there Sept. 14. Havent been there in 12 years - staying at Ohana Villas. Anyone know this place. Also wanna explore Nature Reserve. Any thoughts.? Stoked!

Go to roca mar to eat. That's suck rock out behind it. We saw Tom Brady and Giselle there when we were there. My son embarrassed me when asked for a selfie with them. I tried to explain that those two are in one of the few places that don't gush all over them but he said Brady was polite in his no.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.