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Topic Title: Surf lit: fiction, nonfiction, verse
Topic Summary: Your recs
Created On: 06/06/2018 06:01 AM
Status: Post and Reply
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 06/06/2018 06:01 AM
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AndreaCaloiaro

Posts: 27
Joined: 03/28/2014

It's deathly flat. It's Swamplandia! out there. In down time, I like reading surf related literature, so I'm wondering if anyone else does as well. The two last ones I've read were the following, one obvious but the other rather tangentially surf-related: Allan Wesibecker's In Search of Captain Zero and Thomas Pynchon's Inherent Vice (more of the hippied-out, psychadelic scene of Gordita Beach, with a few passage of someone charging Cortez Bank). 

What surf related material are you reading? Besides Surfer's Journal, which is a must. If it needs to, maybe digress into Florida lit - To Have and To Have Not, for instance. 

Pray for waves.

 

 06/06/2018 06:10 AM
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twinfin62

Posts: 169
Joined: 07/31/2003

"Surf is Where You Find It" by Gerry Lopez. Also, "No Bad Waves" by Mickey Munoz. Both are really good collections of short memoirs, first hand surf history. Great stuff!

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 06/06/2018 06:19 AM
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daner

Posts: 7375
Joined: 04/20/2004

Barbarian Days is good.

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 06/06/2018 07:27 AM
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moody

Posts: 3490
Joined: 07/24/2003

Daner, I was just going to recommend that. It's one of my favorite books, surfing OR non-surfing . And I teach writing, so...

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[Feminism is] a socialist, anti-family, political movement that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become lesbians. ~Pat Robertson
 06/06/2018 08:17 AM
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Zeus

Posts: 1171
Joined: 07/25/2003

Saltwater Buddha is a good read.  One of very few books I've read more than once.  A few years after the book was written it was made into a movie starring the author, which is kind of unique.  Never saw the movie though.

 06/06/2018 09:34 AM
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TeeBirdForever

Posts: 116
Joined: 08/21/2016

 06/06/2018 11:11 AM
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SrfGtr

Posts: 92
Joined: 12/19/2006

Somebody on here recommended Barbarian Days last summer , that week an old guy walked up and handed it to me. That book is a life changer and I'm old ... relatively;-). Passed it on May go to library and read it again . Curious for other suggestions , but nothing is topping Barbarian Days.
 06/07/2018 05:53 AM
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AndreaCaloiaro

Posts: 27
Joined: 03/28/2014

Guys, thanks for the recs! This list provides quite a bit of material for a vicarious surf life until the wave train rolls through again.

 06/07/2018 06:59 AM
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daner

Posts: 7375
Joined: 04/20/2004

"On a Wave" sounds good I'll have to pick that up.

An older book that I remember enjoying is "Caught Inside."

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Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean

 06/08/2018 05:40 AM
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AndreaCaloiaro

Posts: 27
Joined: 03/28/2014

I agree, On a Wave's description's got me really intrigued! Going to pick this one up for sure as well. 

 06/08/2018 10:17 AM
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TeeBirdForever

Posts: 116
Joined: 08/21/2016

FYI, I am pretty sure one of our late east coast surf legends is significant in that book but with a changed name. Thad was part of a surf team.

 06/08/2018 06:04 PM
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OceanTerra

Posts: 707
Joined: 09/13/2011

Check out All for a Few Perfect Waves by David Rensin if you're into Dora's legend.
 06/09/2018 10:17 PM
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oceanstreet

Posts: 23
Joined: 01/29/2015

A Brevard County surfing fiction surfing thriller is My Twisted Summer, available at lulu dot com.

It's Stand by Me meets Goonies. 



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 06/10/2018 06:33 PM
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wbsponger

Posts: 1827
Joined: 08/04/2003

Caught inside is pretty bad, would avoid  that one personally. Barbarian days is exceptional and I have heard on a wave is very good. In search of captain zero is also a good surf read. 

 06/11/2018 02:28 PM
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SurfCaster

Posts: 417
Joined: 02/02/2007

Barbarian Days ^^

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 06/11/2018 03:17 PM
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surfmcc32

Posts: 1129
Joined: 11/11/2009

as everyone mentioned Barbarian Days is a must read for any surfer, especially ones who like to travel. Really changed my perspective on things and have since made traveling a priority in my life. Another good one I didnt see mentioned was Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell by Chas Smith, it's about the north shore. His second book ,Cocaine + Surfing: A sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, comes out tomorrow. looking forward to listening to this one.

 06/12/2018 05:48 AM
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AndreaCaloiaro

Posts: 27
Joined: 03/28/2014

There's surely more out there than a superficial Google search reveals. I've ordered a coupled of these, and that seems timely - the swell situation is dire. 

 06/12/2018 06:26 AM
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moody

Posts: 3490
Joined: 07/24/2003

I didn't think Caught Inside was that bad. But I like Dan Duane's other stuff. I have a collection of women's surf stories called Girl In the curl that's pretty good if a bit hokey - it's got profiles of women surfers and I enjoyed that aspect (I can never read enough about Rell Sun). I refuse to give Allen Weispecker any money so I won't recommend Captain Zero, but it was a pretty good read if a bit psychedelic and self-absorbed (not as bad as his second one, in which he goes totally batpoop crazy and which I read more because someone handed it to me and said "can you BELIEVE this crap?) We need better surf literature. I am reduced to reading William Finnegan's (he wrote Barbarian Days) articles in the New Yorker.

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[Feminism is] a socialist, anti-family, political movement that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become lesbians. ~Pat Robertson
 06/12/2018 06:27 AM
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moody

Posts: 3490
Joined: 07/24/2003

Originally posted by: surfmcc32 as everyone mentioned Barbarian Days is a must read for any surfer, especially ones who like to travel. Really changed my perspective on things and have since made traveling a priority in my life. Another good one I didnt see mentioned was Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell by Chas Smith, it's about the north shore. His second book ,Cocaine + Surfing: A sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, comes out tomorrow. looking forward to listening to this one.
OH YEAH, I had forgotten about this book. I checked it out of the library so it's not on my bookshelves or I would have - it was very good so now I've ordered the new one .

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[Feminism is] a socialist, anti-family, political movement that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become lesbians. ~Pat Robertson
 06/12/2018 06:49 AM
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daner

Posts: 7375
Joined: 04/20/2004

Welcome to Paradise Now go to Hell was quite interesting- especially since I read it a few months before my first trip to the North Shore.

Moody, Are you referring to the Roxy surf book series? Even though they are teeny bopper hokey they were also kinda fun to read too!

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Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean

2nd Light Forums » Surfing » Surf lit: fiction, nonfiction, verse

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