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Topic Title: Oahu for six months, quiver help.
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Created On: 03/25/2018 05:57 AM
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 03/25/2018 05:57 AM
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Paragon1

Posts: 152
Joined Forum: 07/28/2012

Got last minute word that im headed to Ohau for six months starting next week. Its been a scramble getting everything together obviously, but now that ive gotten to the important task of deciding which boards to bring im a bit lost. So for any of you who've been there, here's the lowdown.  20yrs experience, 6'4, 235.  I rate my level at incredibly average, some reef experince in Okinawa (sketchy as f*k there) surfed all up and down the east coast, Gulf, SOCAL, WA, and OR.  I'm a bit of a firewire nut, and my current quiver consists of a 6'6 Unibrow, 6'6 Gamma (never ridden), 6'4 Omni, 6'2 Chumlee, and 6'0 Evo. Sadly, the 9'4 Stewart is staying home.  

I intend to bring 4, but in the event i can only bring 2 what would you consider the absolute "must have" boards for the summer season?  

Any info would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks! 

 03/25/2018 06:11 AM
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dingpatch

Posts: 19032
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

For the most part, , , , leave your boards behind. PLENTY of better matched boards on the Island.

A few years ago, one of the young, ripper, guys at work transferred to northern Oahu. He also was a Firewire nut. Took all his boards. What could go wrong?

Well, the first day he went out at Sunset on a small, "barely ridable" by Hawaiian standards day, he figured he'd try his biggest "step up" board. Holy Monkey Spit! He did not even paddle for a wave. He was totally "Under Gunned". I tried to tell him, but when you are young, , , , , you get it?

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Dora Hates You
 03/25/2018 06:29 AM
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Paragon1

Posts: 152
Joined Forum: 07/28/2012

Fortunately the north shore is out of the question since I'll be there during the summer months.  And i say "fortunately" because I'm 40 yrs old and also a realist when it comes to my abilities.  I had a similar experience in Okinawa surfing Suicide cliffs back in 2015.  I got one wave, one, and you absolutely do not surf there at low tide, like most other places on the island.  The lips on those waves were nearly as thick as the waves were tall.  Humbling experience, and where i didnt witness the "greatest surfing ever" those people are freaking fearless.  Ton of respect for anyone who surfs there regularly.  Probelm i ran into was finding a board there that fit a guy my size, and they were twice as expensive as stateside haha.  I'd assume the board prices in HAW are higher in general due to shipping? If not then i may only bring two and then find a couple new ones out there.   

 03/25/2018 07:09 AM
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Kookbrah

Posts: 451
Joined Forum: 09/06/2011

Get you a couple high performance longboards when you get there. Take your two favorite short boards. 



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 03/25/2018 07:11 AM
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laniakea

Posts: 452
Joined Forum: 07/27/2003

You only need one or two shortboards for town, max. Nothing on the south shore will put the fear of god into you (other than the crowds).
 03/25/2018 08:20 AM
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RegularJoe

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Originally posted by: laniakea

You only need one or two shortboards for town, max. Nothing on the south shore will put the fear of god into you (other than the crowds).


Possible summer hurricane swell? Seems like you'll want some volume in your shorter boards just so you have paddle power at a crowded spot, so take at least one you're familiar with and fond of. You can shop for more, possibly cheaper on CL or other surf forums out there.
 03/25/2018 08:29 AM
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Kimo63

Posts: 541
Joined Forum: 04/22/2012

I would bring a 6'2" and a 6'6" , you will be surfing town mostly . Hope this summer is better than last , then you should get a few nice west side days for maili point and Yokohama . Careful at Yokes , it has a backwash that makes this place a board killer. Had a friend snap his board and two of the others in our group in one session . Diamond head always has a wave , but has wind . Have fun
 03/25/2018 08:38 AM
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RocketSurf

Posts: 645
Joined Forum: 03/20/2014

Originally posted by: laniakea You only need one or two shortboards for town, max. Nothing on the south shore will put the fear of god into you (other than the crowds).

Hey Laniakea, judging by your screen name you have probably spent more water-time in HI than I but I caught the south side in June of 2013 and Ala Moana definitly put the FoG in me.......

 

 03/25/2018 10:57 AM
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laniakea

Posts: 452
Joined Forum: 07/27/2003

Like I said, one or two shortboards for the summer in town is all you will need. Bring a step up if you want but you'll be lucky to get a couple of sessions on it.
 03/25/2018 11:21 AM
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seaspray

Posts: 647
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I live in Okinawa right now. You’re right, it was incredibly sketchy at first for a Florida boy, but I’ve managed to get used to it. I could tell you a couple of stories about Suicide Cliffs. It has the fastest tide change that I’ve ever experienced. An hour after high tide and its already too low, sucking water and ledging

 

 

 03/25/2018 11:43 AM
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Paragon1

Posts: 152
Joined Forum: 07/28/2012

Originally posted by: seaspray I live in Okinawa right now. You’re right, it was incredibly sketchy at first for a Florida boy, but I’ve managed to get used to it. I could tell you a couple of stories about Suicide Cliffs. It has the fastest tide change that I’ve ever experienced. An hour after high tide and its already too low, sucking water and ledging

Thats exactly what happened to me.  The one wave i got was incredible in that i wasnt used to such clear water, legit barrel too.  On the paddle back out i clipped a fin on the reef and it was hanging by the rear tab.  by the time i got it knocked back in to place i already burned too much time and paddling in wasnt an option due to the runout.  

There's a little shelf-like rock that people were taking thier last ride in from that creates a knuckle in the face before it fully stands up.  First time taking a wave like that.  I was the second to last one in.  I was on a local board too that was about 10litres smaller than my usual. That was my last session there before coming home so there wasnt any way i could replace that memory with something better haha.  



Edited: 03/25/2018 at 11:50 AM by Paragon1
 03/25/2018 11:49 AM
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Paragon1

Posts: 152
Joined Forum: 07/28/2012

Originally posted by: laniakea Like I said, one or two shortboards for the summer in town is all you will need. Bring a step up if you want but you'll be lucky to get a couple of sessions on it.

Sounds good then.  Going with the 6'6 Gamma and 6'2 Chumlee, both at 44 litres so that's plenty of paddle power for me.  Might get a souvenier board while im there, but we'll see how it all pans out.  Thanks for all the info everyone!

 03/25/2018 04:27 PM
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steve

Posts: 1049
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I am what one would call a Rick Ka aolemanu...A Rick Kane in reverse. Born and raised in Hawaii then sent off to learn to ride the angry dribblers of Florida.

The thing with Hawaii and townie spots is that the seem close until you get close to paddling out. It is a long way out with a lot of water moving around even if it seems flat on the inside. Then there is the wind. So you do not want to be on a board that is to thin because you will soon have to battle a crowd on a potato chip and they all have the right board. So ride the floatiest board you have or order one.

Have fun and prepare to do battle! Even with 12 year old girls who are trying to back paddle you. But seriously...A chest high day at 3s is beyond anything in these parts. You will have a good time.



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My parents went to Cocoa Beach and all I got was this lousy surfboard!
 03/25/2018 06:43 PM
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Long Beard

Posts: 4314
Joined Forum: 05/13/2007

One word for summer time: THREE'S. I've been living on Oahu year round since 2009. For the most part, you're not going to need any step up boards for those months. April and even May can have some late season action on the North Shore and Sept/ October can have some early season goods for sure. Big boards are a dime a dozen out here. I'd find boards when you got here if I was you but if you have some magic sticks that you must have, bring a log, a short board and a fish. In reference to the photo of Ala Moana bowls a few posts up, don't hold your breath. That's pretty much as good as it gets and the place is harder to get a wave then Pipe. I haven't seen it like that since the Code Red swell that hit Chopes a few years ago. Lot's of great waves on the South Shore though. Feel free to message me if you have any questions. Happy to spread some Southern HospitAloha : )

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R I P Mama G.

@Salt.And.Savagery.Fishing

@Laserwolf.Laserwolf

Edited: 03/25/2018 at 06:49 PM by Long Beard
 03/26/2018 05:46 AM
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Plan B

Posts: 3302
Joined Forum: 03/08/2004

Long Beard with the kama-aina knowledge.....

RocketSurf, if a FL haole boy got some waves off of bowls on a day like that, I'm impressed

 03/26/2018 07:34 AM
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daner

Posts: 7918
Joined Forum: 04/20/2004

My 2 cents.

I went to the North Shore two years ago in March. Didn't take a board because I had heard my normal FL boards wouldn't work there. I had heard that you need more foam there than here so on my first day I rented a longer and thicker board than I usually ride. I got out to the beach and found everyone riding more or less what we ride in FL and I was riding what felt like a cork to me. After a disappointing session I went back and traded in the board for a 6'2" Rusty shortboard which was more like I normally ride. For the most part I was happy with it but it was a little thinner than I ride and found my self struggling to get into waves at some places. Then there were places like Kami's where there was ALOT of water moving, a single point take off and I couldn't compete with the locals on funshapes to get to the take off spot. So certainly a range of boards are needed just like here.

I was only there 2 weeks so you will have more time to dial in a board you like if you decide to get it there, but that was my first surf trip where I didn't take my own favorite boards and I promised myself I would always take them from now own.

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Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean



Edited: 03/26/2018 at 08:37 AM by daner
 03/26/2018 08:33 AM
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SurferMic

Posts: 1251
Joined Forum: 06/30/2012

Similiar in size (6'3" 220) ... For Firewires a 6'8" Dominator worked great in 99% of everything there but I do not mind riding a SB a few inches tall than me. In six months I think you will get a swell or two (or more) on the N. Shore ..late spring or early fall...for Town buy a used Longboard or Funshape off of Craigslist. I really liked having paddle power/extra foam (bigger SB) on the East side, <spot name withheld>, just because of the strong rips and water moving around.  Seemed like the NE winds blew every day on the Eastside, the wave size was direct result of how hard the wind is blowing but fun/good by FL standards. Crazy keyhole entry/exit, watch others enter and exit...

 03/26/2018 01:50 PM
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dingpatch

Posts: 19032
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Yes, Three's!

Nothing better than Three's or Pops on a "nice" day riding a 10'0" epoxy pop-out. After your first good ride is starts to sink in, ", , , , oh, I get it now! This is the way it was in the beginning, and still is! Lets you realize that you will be a cruiser for a lot longer than you will ever be a ripper.

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Dora Hates You
 03/26/2018 05:57 PM
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Long Beard

Posts: 4314
Joined Forum: 05/13/2007

Rocket Surf is that you in that pic????

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R I P Mama G.

@Salt.And.Savagery.Fishing

@Laserwolf.Laserwolf
 03/27/2018 04:38 AM
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Paragon1

Posts: 152
Joined Forum: 07/28/2012

Originally posted by: dingpatch Yes, Three's! Nothing better than Three's or Pops on a "nice" day riding a 10'0" epoxy pop-out. After your first good ride is starts to sink in, ", , , , oh, I get it now! This is the way it was in the beginning, and still is! Lets you realize that you will be a cruiser for a lot longer than you will ever be a ripper.

Hahaha, i've always been a cruiser, I'm definitely picking up a longboard while im out there, gonna need that to get the paddle power back.  

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