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Topic Title: Palm Beach Topic Summary: Just crazy. Created On: 03/06/2018 11:38 AM |
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03/06/2018 11:38 AM
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Every bit of double overhead plus. Wind was offshore and great until about 10 am. Even before that, mostly closeouts. I had to climb my leash in a literal breathless panic for what are the worst hold downs of my life. I am amazed that my leash held, I am happy to be alive, happy my board is in one piece and humbled by a wave I probably should not have even tried to surf. I rode a 7'4 Bonzer that I checked for buckles after every paddle back to the lineup. Saw two guys break boards.
Once the wind changed, I was stuck out there trying to figure out how to even make back in. THe wind closed out the wave even more an it was like a 100 ton car crusher jacking up and then dropping in a way that really made you pull back, if you could. Sketchy does not even begin to describe the monster wave out there today. I am beaten, bloodied and rag dolled. I had a total of four waves where I dropped in on the rail, pulled the rail and got as far as I could until the close out section dropped the no vacancy sign with a vengeance. I want tomorrow to be smaller with offshores and I don't want to have climb my leash with the knowledge that if the string or leash fails, my friends will be planning a paddle out for me. Crazy day. I am beat. ------------------------- "One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky. |
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03/06/2018 12:01 PM
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Ouch only thing happened to me was getting sucked through the inlet over an hour after tide was supposed to change to outgoing. Underestimated the push from wave action delaying the tide. Scenic route under the bridge before scrambling to rocks hah saw it happpen to 7 or so other dudes |
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03/06/2018 12:43 PM
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Glad you're ok JB. I'm stuck in the office for 1 more day, then I'm gone, gone, gone!
------------------------- Specializing in sarcasm and condescending rhetoric since 1971. |
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03/06/2018 12:47 PM
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Hate it when that happens. It isn't fun. Glad you and your board made it intact.
------------------------- Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean |
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03/06/2018 01:36 PM
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You have some balls amigo!
That's the thickest lip south of Pump House. I got a beat down by Ophelia there that reset my entire surfing philosophy. |
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03/06/2018 02:24 PM
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Glad you're ok JB. I'm stuck in the office for 1 more day, then I'm gone, gone, gone! I picked today and blew it. Straight west at 15 by 8:00 am tomorrow. ------------------------- I was right. |
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03/06/2018 04:48 PM
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damn. I too have been stuck where you were when the sets jacked with a full tide and you couldn't easily get into it with the wind and it was mainly closeouts. Took me almost an hour to actually get in. two guys broke boards next to me just to make me that much more uncomfortable. That's when I was in good shape. |
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03/06/2018 04:50 PM
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!!!
Glad you made it in finally!!! but you know...i'm just saying...if you would have called..i would have had pics and video of it and you would be on Utubed for 15 min of "Holy Toledo that's some shit!!!" just saying... ------------------------- BurrysBreak Inflation caused The BIG BANG...look it up! |
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03/06/2018 05:14 PM
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I picked today and blew it. Straight west at 15 by 8:00 am tomorrow. What I am seeing is southwest sunrise to 0830, then quickly shifting northwest which is bad for south central Brevard. Hope for the best, plan for the worst. |
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03/06/2018 05:22 PM
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Yeah buddy! Go big, or go home. |
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03/06/2018 06:03 PM
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You'll look back on this day and be happy you did what you did. It's puts everything else (surfing wise) in perspective. |
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03/06/2018 07:08 PM
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Should've driven just a bit further south to Delay and you would've been in a dreamland hehe... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf7Rpz-fdQw |
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03/06/2018 07:12 PM
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03/06/2018 07:17 PM
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Delray Beach breaks really good on a big swell like this.
Perfect shape. |
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03/06/2018 07:27 PM
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Wow!!!
------------------------- Who needs a better life? |
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03/06/2018 07:27 PM
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Johnnyboy, great write up. I've had some near death experiences there as well as use to surf there a lot in the 80s and always undergunned. I surfed there one time, think it was christmas 89 and it was so freakin' big. Its a dangerous place to surf cause it is an easy deceiving paddle out near the jetty. Then you get out there and when it is maxed out you just can't wait to drift out of it and into a softer place to paddle in. Of course, the waves I caught were all time. But, it is a real struggle.
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03/06/2018 07:32 PM
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And, its funny seeing those surfers in Delray wearing fullsuits when we have been skinning it up here in brevard for the past month. OMG its 78 degrees. LOL
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03/06/2018 07:50 PM
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Saw a Jupiter guy at lunch and he surfed Delray and said it was all time but that he caught three waves and all three times he got dropped in on. That's really frustrating on a good day. It's flat out dangerous on a day like today.
------------------------- "One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky. |
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03/07/2018 08:17 AM
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I surfed 5 miles North of Delray and it looks like it was more than double that size. |
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03/07/2018 09:44 PM
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The funniest part of the day was seeing our very own surfing weatherman James weiland walking up the path after the wind went onshore. We passed and he gave a polite what's up. "You and the wind". Me and my buddy got a good laugh at that.
------------------------- "One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky. |
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