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Topic Title: Looking to get into big wave surfing
Topic Summary: Sounds like a stay-cation on the north shore is the ticket
Created On: 01/21/2018 04:51 PM
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 01/24/2018 11:11 AM
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SurferMic

Posts: 720
Joined: 06/30/2012

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Edited: 01/25/2018 at 07:02 PM by SurferMic
 01/24/2018 03:33 PM
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Sector9surf

Posts: 1879
Joined: 01/14/2010

I don't understand the desire for giant surf. Once the surf is a certain size, things become more survival oriented than anything. It's humbling, gratifying, etc..., Maybe done right it's not so dangerous, but it seems to me to be a lot of training with little reward, and situations which you might not get yourself out of. How much time do you need to spend training, plus then bobbing around in giant surf before you get a good ride?

What do you consider big wave surfing? Tahiti and Pipe up to double or triple overhead seem to be surfed regularly by CT pros and are still big waves, but then spots like Nazare and Puerto Escondido or Mavs have a different crew. I wouldn't claim either of those as being easier to surf, but it does seem like more pros would be comfortable surfing Pipe and Tahiti than a wave like Nazare or Mavs, and I assume this is mostly based on skill vs brawn. (Why risk your life?)

Do pro's survival train for waves like Pipe or Tahiti, or you mentioned Tres Palmas? It seems to me that, they just surf a lot and have been in those conditions enough times to be comfortable. I could be way off, but I don't think early pros trained in the same way people think of it as now. I'd imagine you could surf equally well just by surfing those same spots on smaller days until you feel comfortable in the big stuff.

So what is the appeal of big XXL waves?



Edited: 01/24/2018 at 03:48 PM by Sector9surf
 01/24/2018 07:31 PM
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MyCatSprays

Posts: 362
Joined: 04/16/2015

This is the most retarded, redundant, made for flat out ruding thread evaz!!! Go to Puerto and paddle out on a 10'-12' day on a 5'10" twin fin!!! If you dont drowned, you are a big wave surfer and carry on from there!!! Always remember that stupid is as stupid does, and if you ask a dumbass question, expect to get an asshole answer!!! God Bless and stop being such a Barney,... Barney!!!



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Tubes, Boobs, & Doobs!!!
 01/25/2018 02:30 PM
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jettyparksurfer

Posts: 398
Joined: 07/25/2009

Tres Palmas is like a slower version of sunset when its big but still doesnt match the north shore. Take a couple weeks and get out to hawaii and work your way up. Get the right board too because a 6'0 thruster used here is almost useless once its overhead there. The waves are very fat and fast; a wave a couple feet overhead looks about as wide as a house. Dont paddle straight out into overhead conditions because you will get your ass kicked and wash up back to shore completely rattled and stunned. A lot of the spots have outer reefs that break when a big set is coming and thats your signal to start paddling further out. When you get steam rolled by a large set HOLD ON TO YOUR BOARD. If you lose it you are probably not going to be able to tread water between waves because there is so much air coming up its almost impossible so you might be holding your breathe for a while. Its worth the experience though. Once you spend a couple weeks getting pounded out there youll have a better idea if you really want to pursue big wave surfing. 

 01/25/2018 03:28 PM
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SurferMic

Posts: 720
Joined: 06/30/2012

.



Edited: 01/25/2018 at 07:01 PM by SurferMic
 01/26/2018 08:42 AM
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SurferMic

Posts: 720
Joined: 06/30/2012

Time for CROSS-training...take off the leash & go for a paddle/surf/swim

-------------------------------------------------------------------
East winds 15 to 20 knots diminishing to 10 to
15 knots in the afternoon. Seas 7 to 10 feet with a dominant
period 9 seconds. Choppy on the intracoastal waters. Slight
chance of showers.

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Would be cool if you could go out with a buddy get to the outside and give him your board and do the swim in...maybe just easier to swim all the way to the outside, body-surf a few and swim back in.  Endurance and learning to be being alone without any floatation "in the mix". Beats doing yard work.

More X-traning...Merrit Island FunPlex, go to the vert ramp , look over the edge and drop in on the 14 foot extension (if you sk8)..Looking ove the edge of a giant vert ramp saying , routine stuff, no big deal....tail drop and feel the rush. Locally that is about all you can do.  There is a similiar feeling of fear many get when looking over the edge of a 12-14 foot vert ramp. After a while the fear is gone..



Edited: 01/26/2018 at 09:07 AM by SurferMic
 01/26/2018 08:53 AM
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Plan B

Posts: 1285
Joined: 03/08/2004

I wish.... WT is 53 here 



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:beer;

 01/28/2018 08:23 AM
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Sector9surf

Posts: 1879
Joined: 01/14/2010

Bodysurfing in big surf can sometimes be really fun and its a hell of a workout. Lol

 

Video

Http://youtu.be/c4blxjvsckq



Edited: 01/29/2018 at 05:41 AM by Sector9surf
 02/02/2018 09:30 PM
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waveaddict

Posts: 1056
Joined: 07/24/2003

Thanks Cole! It was a humbling experience for sure!

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Think and seek and you shall find.....
2nd Light Forums » Surfing » Looking to get into big wave surfing

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