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Topic Title: Looking to get into big wave surfing
Topic Summary: Sounds like a stay-cation on the north shore is the ticket
Created On: 01/21/2018 04:51 PM
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 01/22/2018 03:23 PM
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Julianuribe23

Posts: 627
Joined Forum: 05/21/2012

Originally posted by: SurfCaster If you want to become an underground charger, you need to move to the North Shore. The closest FL has ever had to an underground charger is probably Todd Morcom, but he transitioned into that role after being a sponsored pro. Running with rocks in the Banana River all summer and then surfing Tres Palmas twice a winter isn't going to cut it...unless that's what you're looking for. Don't mean for that to come across as negative.
 

Is there any way I could get in contact with him? I would seriously appreciate it.



Edited: 01/23/2018 at 08:22 AM by Julianuribe23
 01/22/2018 10:33 PM
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ww

Posts: 14430
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At age 26, you might check possibilities for a work permit in New Zealand or Australia.  Chances of fitting into one of their areas of need are slim, but for all I know you might be an electrician or the right kind of nurse. 

 

 

 01/23/2018 03:42 AM
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onebuck

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Originally posted by: SurfCaster If you want to become an underground charger, you need to move to the North Shore. The closest FL has ever had to an underground charger is probably Todd Morcom, but he transitioned into that role after being a sponsored pro. Running with rocks in the Banana River all summer and then surfing Tres Palmas twice a winter isn't going to cut it...unless that's what you're looking for. Don't mean for that to come across as negative.

Morcom charges no doubt...but lets not forget about "H"..me paw has shown me some pretty heavy barrel pics...he gets the XL shit as well...goodluck

 01/23/2018 07:28 AM
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chopola

Posts: 1007
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Julian, you sound like your having a mid life crisis. If you are serious about surfing serious surf, sell all your stuff and start over in Hawaii. Plenty of opportunity to see if you have what it takes there. I used to spend a couple months there each winter when I was young, and the conclusion I came to was you have got to live there to really get dialed in.

I would expect that once you get a taste of some real juice, you will be happy with just really good waves. good luck
 01/23/2018 08:20 AM
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Julianuribe23

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I'm gonna look into an extended stay in Oahu sometime during the late season. Thanks for all the input guys!

 01/23/2018 09:39 AM
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Plan B

Posts: 1512
Joined Forum: 03/08/2004

that's what you need to do. Hopefully you score.....

I'll sell ya a 6-10 and a 7-6.  They've seen alot of action and have a decent tan, but they'll be cheap, so you can charge and break em with little consequence 

The 7-6 has gone over the falls on plenty of big waves and it's still in one piece, so you know it's solid.... moreso than it's owner 



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 01/23/2018 02:01 PM
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Zeus

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Unless you're looking to pussy foot around, you need to go straight to Nazare and get on with it.  In fact you should have been there on Jan 18, 2018

 01/23/2018 02:08 PM
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daner

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Originally posted by: Julianuribe23

I'm gonna look into an extended stay in Oahu sometime during the late season. Thanks for all the input guys!



Can't go wrong with that!


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 01/23/2018 06:39 PM
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dropsolo

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Originally posted by: Zeus

Unless you're looking to pussy foot around, you need to go straight to Nazare and get on with it.  In fact you should have been there on Jan 18, 2018




Read my mind! Board shorts or a speedo at nazeres and paddling in or you're just another kook in the line up!



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 01/23/2018 07:42 PM
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waveaddict

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Just got back from the North Shore and did the goal of surfing there in the winter that I always dreamed about. I can't say enough how humbling and fearful are the feelings that overwhelm you on the travel there to the paddle out . I did not go alone stupidly. I had two very experienced locals guide me to a spot just west of Waimea Bay. Alligators for anyone that knows the area. I can say it was a moment in life etched forever. The feeling of conquering such a task still has me on the high. Two solid sets were enough for me as fighting the white water from driving me into the rocks and reef limited my desire to go on.

Go for it! I can't say enough the feeling of dropping off a Hawaiian North Shore wave will do for you soul, spirit and living life boldly. I am a changed man for sure. I wish I was your age to keep charging for the future. I'm 52. Not sure but I am pretty sure that was the peak for me. Only a tow in could notch it up for me. The power. The serinty words can't be put to. Surfing is so much of a mental sport when you get to this kind of wave. Every big wave surfer I talked to would say the same first piece of advice in this order. That is learn to relax and fight nothing. Let yourself go until the violence is over to reserve your hold down time. Second train in breath holds. Third diet and work out. The North Shore has a luxury tho. That is the paddle out. You have raging rips that jet you out so you take minimal hits going out. Timing is the key. Waiting after a set of 5-10 waves literally has an effect of water running of the plate but in this case it's the reef. Time it right and your out there. It's a far paddle when the big boys roll in. But the comfort of deeper water adds a little more security.
When I was out there weeks ago I sadly was surfing not far from Dusty's accident. His face got ripped and teeth gone. Another older Pro died on Rocky Point. This was from a swell big enough to break large on the shallow reef. Pipe standards I would call it. But when it gets bigger Pipe and Sunset and the others close down and outer breaks appear. Where i went out this happened. I felt more comfortable chasing the larger wave as it was breaking deeper. But the white water mountain raging behind me as i cut out would jam you into the shallow reef if you did not get out quick. It was scaring me I will admit as I was under saying this forward tumbling better stop soon. O I hope I can get back out too. My timiing taking the last wave of the set paid off dearly. I caught the rip and got out both times quickly. But if I would of took that first wave it's meat grinding time with no help in sight as we surfed a remote area so we would not have to contend with any agro surfers on the same swell.

Bottom line go for your goal. Go for your dream. When you catch it it's a treasure in the mind that plays for ever a great memory. Seeking local training as the others have said is the best thing I can recommend too. I never stopped asking and talking to everyone before I went out. If I did not and went on my own intuition. I might not be typing this thread. I even prepared silently before I left in getting my will up to date. I wanted to make sure if I went out the way I would like my kids were taken care of as they are all over 20 now. Be wise from the planning to the paddle in. It pays off in the North Shore.

I also would recommend Northern Nicaragua called the boom. It's good practice for the North Shore in the Winter but with sandy bottom options. Reefs don't have any grace. I was fortinate to leave Hawaii with a bloody reef cut on the foot and that's all. Life is Good! Surf till you can't breath no more!

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Think and seek and you shall find.....
 01/23/2018 08:15 PM
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larenyon

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A key thing that I haven't seen mentioned is to get a board by a very reputable shaper who specializes in guns and who is either located where you are going, or who really knows that specific wave well. Get a board shaped for the exact spot, or short list of spots, that you specifically plan on surfing. If you go to Hawaii, order a gun by the local shapers there before you go, so it's waiting for you when you arrive. My gun was shaped by a local shaper for the wave I was surfing, and it definitely worked so well that it saved my butt on a couple of really late drops.

 01/24/2018 03:52 AM
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RiddleMe

Posts: 1844
Joined Forum: 07/21/2011

No, the Boom isn’t a good suggestion. I have surfed it big and heavy and it was still manageable for a slightly below average surfer like myself. Maybe if you paddle around the impact zone against a rip at low tide when it is big there you would get adequate training I suppose. It will beat you up good from personal experience.

 01/24/2018 05:34 AM
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Cole

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Excellent story waveaddict. Charging!

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 01/24/2018 06:38 AM
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SurferMic

Posts: 752
Joined Forum: 06/30/2012

Another vote for parking it on the N. Shore for a few weeks, 7'6" at Sunset bch. get there at dawn, Dry hair paddle then work your way into the main peak.  Everything happens twice a fast as compared to PR.  Getting a few wipe-outs and geting caught inside is good, once you realize you can survive you can continue learning.  Many would disagree on this but a SIMPLE floataion vest may be a good investment, not the type that have Air canisters but the slim ones that will give you some flotation when your leash breaks (and it will).

Many years while on my annual N. Shore trip(s)...a surfer lost his board @ Jockos and another Ozzie came to his rescue they both got swept out to sea, they could not make it back in on one board, night time came they were still missing, Coast Guard finally located them late that night...everyone thought they were dead.

http://getwashed.com/coast-guard-rescues-2-surfers-off-oahus-north-shore/

Also remember Kirk passing a few days before I arrived on a trip many years ago..entire N. Shore was in shock, went to Banzia Sushi to pay respect to the memorial they had for him.

https://www.surfer.com/photos/kirk-passmores-final-wave/

at 26 you are fearless...things can and do go wrong for many expeirenced surfers, do not have kids and stay single as bad as that sounds cause you never know...

Pratice in FL is only paddle, paddle, paddle and swimming laps underwater, and go out on the days that are 12'@9 secs to practice geting out through 20 walls of whitewater..not much else you can do. Ever been denied in FL? if not you have not gone out on a great practice day we rarely see.



Edited: 01/24/2018 at 07:03 AM by SurferMic
 01/24/2018 06:54 AM
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Plan B

Posts: 1512
Joined Forum: 03/08/2004

Originally posted by: waveaddict I had two very experienced locals guide me to a spot just west of Waimea Bay. Alligators for anyone that knows the area. I can say it was a moment in life etched forever. The feeling of conquering such a task still has me on the high. Two solid sets were enough for me as fighting the white water from driving me into the rocks and reef limited my desire to go on.

Gators... I have a love/hate relationship with that wave (same with Backyards) I've had the "pleasure" of getting hucked over the falls and breaking my leash on a 6ft++ day..... the board washed way down towards Leftovers (Carmen's) and was somehow unscathed.  Was an interesting swim to find it though

Stoked to hear you had a good trip

 

Jocko's is such a heavier wave than it looks from the beach.... finally surfed it 2 years ago (last time I was there) on a solid day and got anniliated on the inside as a wave denotated in front of me.  That one hurt



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 01/24/2018 07:00 AM
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ww

Posts: 14430
Joined Forum: 08/17/2007

Literature department:  Bruce Jenkins must be getting close to 70, but the San Francisco sports writer knew the North Shore.  

Not specifically aimed at surfers, but expert:  Beaches of Oahu.  University of Hawai'i Press periodically has big sales.   

 01/24/2018 07:25 AM
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Plan B

Posts: 1512
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 01/24/2018 07:38 AM
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ww

Posts: 14430
Joined Forum: 08/17/2007

Hatteras lighthouse and vicinity seems to have been a good training ground for Hawaii.  So this photo should make Plan B's look even better.

This was a miserably cold January 15.   I was having serious back pain, walking from the car was miserable, and an epic runny nose was getting started.  Water was allegedly 39.  And the waves, while decent, were not looking exactly easy to find takeoff spots.  

Hatteras lighthouse



Edited: 01/24/2018 at 08:18 AM by ww
 01/24/2018 08:20 AM
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Julianuribe23

Posts: 627
Joined Forum: 05/21/2012

Originally posted by: SurferMic Another vote for parking it on the N. Shore for a few weeks, 7'6" at Sunset bch. get there at dawn, Dry hair paddle then work your way into the main peak.  Everything happens twice a fast as compared to PR.  Getting a few wipe-outs and geting caught inside is good, once you realize you can survive you can continue learning.  Many would disagree on this but a SIMPLE floataion vest may be a good investment, not the type that have Air canisters but the slim ones that will give you some flotation when your leash breaks (and it will).

 

Many years while on my annual N. Shore trip(s)...a surfer lost his board @ Jockos and another Ozzie came to his rescue they both got swept out to sea, they could not make it back in on one board, night time came they were still missing, Coast Guard finally located them late that night...everyone thought they were dead.

 

http://getwashed.com/coast-guard-rescues-2-surfers-off-oahus-north-shore/

 

Also remember Kirk passing a few days before I arrived on a trip many years ago..entire N. Shore was in shock, went to Banzia Sushi to pay respect to the memorial they had for him.

 

https://www.surfer.com/photos/kirk-passmores-final-wave/

 

at 26 you are fearless...things can and do go wrong for many expeirenced surfers, do not have kids and stay single as bad as that sounds cause you never know...

 

Pratice in FL is only paddle, paddle, paddle and swimming laps underwater, and go out on the days that are 12'@9 secs to practice geting out through 20 walls of whitewater..not much else you can do. Ever been denied in FL? if not you have not gone out on a great practice day we rarely see.

 

I honestly would have no shame or issue with wearing a vest and a helmet, especially when starting off. I remember reading about Kirk's death a while back and that was one hell of a way to go.



Edited: 01/24/2018 at 08:39 AM by Julianuribe23
 01/24/2018 08:31 AM
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Julianuribe23

Posts: 627
Joined Forum: 05/21/2012

Some of your stories really get me stoked about going for this, thanks for sharing guys!

FORUMS : Surfing : Looking to get into big wave surfing

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