It's something I've been wanting to get into ever since I saw triple overhead Tres Palmas go off back in March 2013 - I watched in amazement yet knew I was unprepared - equipment, experience, fitness and mentality wise. 

Fast forward a few years later - I've gotten to the point where I can literally surf any swell in Florida comfortably. I went to Puerto Rico exactly a year ago as well and wasn't phased by anything, and some sets were pushing double overhead. I may never be as technically proficient as a shredder as I wish I could be... but big wave surfing is something I feel like I could get into with the a headstrong attitude.

I'm 26, in pretty good shape, and don't have any strong commitments in my life yet - if there's any time in my life to do this, it's now. I know there's some hardcore chargers that reside in the 321 - any tips or guidance in terms of taking my first true steps into proper big wave surfing? Any input and help is appreciated.

Edited: 01/24/2018 at 08:23 AM by Julianuribe23

You're probably going to need to move, or have plenty of airline funds..

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When America was "great"

Head to Northern California, it's a good place to transition. Mavericks is a sight to see but not a place to start... there are a lot of other point breaks out there & good people to connect with - probably online forums or facestalker best way get intros - but be honest with your abilities: DOH at Tres Palmas is more like just the shore break you've gotta paddle through just to start the real paddle out to the deep water break & keep in mind that Pacific long period is a whole nother thing... but you can work up just take it one step at a time and train train train. It's not so much about ability in surfing technique rather more about physical ability!

But, riding a real big wave - paddle in not tow - is an experience you'll never forget! I remember my first big wave, probably 20' face, I just turned went and it felt like an eternity going down  down forever and was scared as shit but the stoke I felt after!!!!

 

Good luck and have fun 

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get up early and go surf - it'll make that hangover go away and/or make the workday more tolerable :)

Well, you need to move. That would be a good first start.

Oahu would be a good start. The water is warm and you can work your way up to size at the less popular spots. Backyards is a good starting point.

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I was right.

1) do you want to just surf "bigger" waves?

2) or do you want to be a full charger?

If the latter, then yes it's prob time to relocate like others have said unless you have pockets and schedule to chase and spend time a big wave venues....

If the former, start by taking trips to get some serious waves.... (ex: North Shore instead of Brosta Rica, etc) and get some legit boards

If you're a solid surfer and in pretty good physical shape, it's mostly mental.... I wish I was 26 again

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

Sorry for the multiple replies. Glitch on my wifi.

How long can you hold your breath while getting your ass beat?

Good luck and get a trusty sidekick to capture the chronicle.

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"Don't count the days, make the days count." -Ali
#rydyrstrong

not sure what involved but Todos Santos always looked somewhat "playful" on smaller days, suppers etc out there.

Maybe try and find some tall but tame waves to get your feet wet.

IMO the crowd alone at some of the big wave spots is too dangerous to risk lol

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I troll 2L.com to be a better person in real life

The latter. I thought about relocating but I wanted to train here and then book it to PR the next time they get an XL swell - I hear a lot how Tres is the 'gateway' big wave in terms of getting into proper big wave charging.

I'm sure theres people here that make spontaneous trips to PR in order to charge XL swells, so I was hoping someone could take me under their wing and show me the ropes. Obviously, I would be training and what not under my own, but I feel like that mentorship would be a game changer.

Never considered Todos Santos. How does it compare to Tres?

Edited: 01/23/2018 at 08:30 AM by Julianuribe23

Yes, you can definitely hope on JetBlue to chase big swells (I've done it... only time Ive been to PR actually.... took serious doughnuts at Tres for the amusement of others)*

but to be honest... that's not a good way to get comfortable.  You have to be able to work your way up to it, and it definitely takes repetition.  Those types there just happen sporadically, so it's pretty hard to be in a "comfort zone" (if there is such a  thing)... you'd need to spend some time there.

The quickest route  is to really plan on some time on the North Shore... You can train your body anywhere, when it comes to mind and surf skills....hard to "Train" for big waves without big waves 

There are some chargers in FL, but I'm pretty sure most have spent serious time (or lived) in areas that get legit waves... (sans the pro level guys that just have the pure skills)

 

While I've surfed some bigger waves, I'm NOT a big wave a charger... but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express

 

* I've "surfed" Tres once (mostly just got cleaned up multiple times) but I'll say it's less intimidating than Sunset for sure (sans the freak XXL days that happen on a once a decade basis)  That was my only time in PR.  Been to North shore prob 8 or 9 times.... going again next week

Edited: 01/22/2018 at 02:29 PM by Plan B

Very good post from artz!

If you want to become an underground charger, you need to move to the North Shore. The closest FL has ever had to an underground charger is probably Todd Morcom, but he transitioned into that role after being a sponsored pro. Running with rocks in the Banana River all summer and then surfing Tres Palmas twice a winter isn't going to cut it...unless that's what you're looking for. Don't mean for that to come across as negative.

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"If I say it's safe to surf this beach, captain, then it's safe to surf this beach!"

 Bring your money and your balls to the North Shore. I would think cold water breaks would not be a good learning ground.