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Topic Title: Looking to get into big wave surfing
Topic Summary: Sounds like a stay-cation on the north shore is the ticket
Created On: 01/21/2018 04:51 PM
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 01/21/2018 04:51 PM
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Julianuribe23

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It's something I've been wanting to get into ever since I saw triple overhead Tres Palmas go off back in March 2013 - I watched in amazement yet knew I was unprepared - equipment, experience, fitness and mentality wise. 

Fast forward a few years later - I've gotten to the point where I can literally surf any swell in Florida comfortably. I went to Puerto Rico exactly a year ago as well and wasn't phased by anything, and some sets were pushing double overhead. I may never be as technically proficient as a shredder as I wish I could be... but big wave surfing is something I feel like I could get into with the a headstrong attitude.

I'm 26, in pretty good shape, and don't have any strong commitments in my life yet - if there's any time in my life to do this, it's now. I know there's some hardcore chargers that reside in the 321 - any tips or guidance in terms of taking my first true steps into proper big wave surfing? Any input and help is appreciated.



Edited: 01/24/2018 at 08:23 AM by Julianuribe23
 01/21/2018 06:03 PM
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fishkller

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You're probably going to need to move, or have plenty of airline funds..

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 01/21/2018 07:48 PM
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surferclimber

Posts: 1069
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Originally posted by: Julianuribe23 It's something I've been wanting to get into ever since I saw Tres Palmas go off back in March 2013 - I watched in amazement yet knew I was unprepared - equipment, experience, fitness and mentality wise. 

 

Fast forward a few years later - I've gotten to the point where I can literally surf any swell in Florida comfortably. I went to Puerto Rico exactly a year ago as well and wasn't phased by anything, and some sets were pushing double overhead. Even though I've put in the work in surfing, I've come to accept that I may never be as technically proficient as a shredder as I wish I could be... but big wave surfing is something I feel like I could get into with the same headstrong attitude.

 

I'm 26, in pretty good shape, and don't have any strong commitments in my life yet - if there's any time in my life to do this, it's now. I know there's some hardcore chargers that reside in the 321 - any tips or guidance in terms of taking my first true steps into proper big wave surfing? Any input and help is appreciated.

 

Head to Northern California, it's a good place to transition. Mavericks is a sight to see but not a place to start... there are a lot of other point breaks out there & good people to connect with - probably online forums or facestalker best way get intros - but be honest with your abilities: DOH at Tres Palmas is more like just the shore break you've gotta paddle through just to start the real paddle out to the deep water break & keep in mind that Pacific long period is a whole nother thing... but you can work up just take it one step at a time and train train train. It's not so much about ability in surfing technique rather more about physical ability!

But, riding a real big wave - paddle in not tow - is an experience you'll never forget! I remember my first big wave, probably 20' face, I just turned went and it felt like an eternity going down  down forever and was scared as shit but the stoke I felt after!!!!

 

Good luck and have fun 



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get up early and go surf - it'll make that hangover go away and/or make the workday more tolerable :)

 01/22/2018 07:04 AM
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miker

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Well, you need to move. That would be a good first start.
 01/22/2018 07:15 AM
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Cole

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Oahu would be a good start. The water is warm and you can work your way up to size at the less popular spots. Backyards is a good starting point.

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 01/22/2018 07:16 AM
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Plan B

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1) do you want to just surf "bigger" waves?

2) or do you want to be a full charger?

If the latter, then yes it's prob time to relocate like others have said unless you have pockets and schedule to chase and spend time a big wave venues....

If the former, start by taking trips to get some serious waves.... (ex: North Shore instead of Brosta Rica, etc) and get some legit boards

If you're a solid surfer and in pretty good physical shape, it's mostly mental.... I wish I was 26 again

 01/22/2018 07:26 AM
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monsoon

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There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

 01/22/2018 07:28 AM
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monsoon

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There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

 01/22/2018 07:28 AM
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monsoon

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There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

 01/22/2018 07:28 AM
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monsoon

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There's a guy on the North Shore. He hangs out near the shaved ice place in Haleiwa. His name is Turtle. He'll point you in the right direction.

 01/22/2018 07:29 AM
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monsoon

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Sorry for the multiple replies. Glitch on my wifi.

 01/22/2018 08:27 AM
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CERTON

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How long can you hold your breath while getting your ass beat?

Good luck and get a trusty sidekick to capture the chronicle.

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 01/22/2018 09:03 AM
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stokedpanda

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not sure what involved but Todos Santos always looked somewhat "playful" on smaller days, suppers etc out there.

Maybe try and find some tall but tame waves to get your feet wet.

IMO the crowd alone at some of the big wave spots is too dangerous to risk lol

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 01/22/2018 09:08 AM
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Julianuribe23

Posts: 634
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Originally posted by: Plan B 1) do you want to just surf "bigger" waves?

 

2) or do you want to be a full charger?

 

If the latter, then yes it's prob time to relocate like others have said unless you have pockets and schedule to chase and spend time a big wave venues....

 

If the former, start by taking trips to get some serious waves.... (ex: North Shore instead of Brosta Rica, etc) and get some legit boards

 

If you're a solid surfer and in pretty good physical shape, it's mostly mental.... I wish I was 26 again

 

The latter. I thought about relocating but I wanted to train here and then book it to PR the next time they get an XL swell - I hear a lot how Tres is the 'gateway' big wave in terms of getting into proper big wave charging.

I'm sure theres people here that make spontaneous trips to PR in order to charge XL swells, so I was hoping someone could take me under their wing and show me the ropes. Obviously, I would be training and what not under my own, but I feel like that mentorship would be a game changer.

 01/22/2018 09:12 AM
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Julianuribe23

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Originally posted by: stokedpanda not sure what involved but Todos Santos always looked somewhat "playful" on smaller days, suppers etc out there. Maybe try and find some tall but tame waves to get your feet wet. IMO the crowd alone at some of the big wave spots is too dangerous to risk lol

Never considered Todos Santos. How does it compare to Tres?



Edited: 01/23/2018 at 08:30 AM by Julianuribe23
 01/22/2018 09:20 AM
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Plan B

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Yes, you can definitely hope on JetBlue to chase big swells (I've done it... only time Ive been to PR actually.... took serious doughnuts at Tres for the amusement of others)*

but to be honest... that's not a good way to get comfortable.  You have to be able to work your way up to it, and it definitely takes repetition.  Those types there just happen sporadically, so it's pretty hard to be in a "comfort zone" (if there is such a  thing)... you'd need to spend some time there.

The quickest route  is to really plan on some time on the North Shore... You can train your body anywhere, when it comes to mind and surf skills....hard to "Train" for big waves without big waves 

There are some chargers in FL, but I'm pretty sure most have spent serious time (or lived) in areas that get legit waves... (sans the pro level guys that just have the pure skills)

 

While I've surfed some bigger waves, I'm NOT a big wave a charger... but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express

 

* I've "surfed" Tres once (mostly just got cleaned up multiple times) but I'll say it's less intimidating than Sunset for sure (sans the freak XXL days that happen on a once a decade basis)  That was my only time in PR.  Been to North shore prob 8 or 9 times.... going again next week



Edited: 01/22/2018 at 02:29 PM by Plan B
 01/22/2018 10:49 AM
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artz

Posts: 578
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Originally posted by: stokedpanda not sure what involved but Todos Santos always looked somewhat "playful" on smaller days, suppers etc out there. Maybe try and find some tall but tame waves to get your feet wet. IMO the crowd alone at some of the big wave spots is too dangerous to risk lol[/q

Toto Santos,Is along way from help if you get in trouble. The only way to get to Totos is by boat . The water is cold very cold. A cold water current hits the upper Baja. There are big boils in the face of the wave. It is a relatively swallow break with a Rock Bottom.  It is a very challenging wave easy to get caught inside. It would be a good place to test your resolve.  Upper Baja  has some nice Pontes and reefs that can hold a large swell. They are off the radar. Those that know pack up their campers and head south. There is a Point that my friends and me use to surf we called Brothers Point. You can’t see it from the Hyw . There is a dirt road that leads to it  you can pay Family a few Dollars to camp. It is wave you have learn. Has its own personality. Other waves  around San Diego to test your Your abilities are Blacks. Blacks when it is Big has the power of Hawaiian wave. It is a thick powerful wave. There isn’t a clear channel to use to get outside. Lots of hold downs due to the very deep underwater canyon sneaker sets are common. The very worse whip out of my life was at Blacks. Pitched over the falls sucked up the face and pitched again. Only to come up right in the impact zone 3 wave hold down. La Jolla Cove. A deep water wave that only comes alive on the largest of swells. Swamies on a big swell is good place to learn how to deal with crowds. It is an easy wave to Surf at size. I love Swamies. My go to wave for more then 20 years. Another place in CA to see just how good of Paddler you are is Ocean Beach San Francisco. Again cold cold cold water shifting peaks. Never Surfed there. 

The problem with most of CA is that really large swells don’t hit as often as they do in Hawaii. If you want to surf big waves you have to be in Hawaii for the winter. From Oct until early April. 10 Foot Sunset is an eye opener. What they were calling 6 foot was scary. Never even tried to surf the Bay. If you can afford a trip a good to to go for a couple of weeks is February to Early April. March April can be very good. Less crowds the Pros are pretty much gone locals are getting back to work. Lots of used winter Boards start popping up for sale. 

Some get very comfortable in Big waves.I never did. My friend Patrick loved big Sunset. He was a Shaper that would go over for the season ghost shaping for some of the big name shapers in the 1970 into the 1990s. Craig Hollowingsworth was another charger, one of the first to Surf Puerto Escondido. My old friend Bruce Royer had a photo in Surfer Mag taking a drop at Puerto in that first artical on Puerto with Billy Stange on the cover of  Surfer announcing the discovery of the  Mexican E 

If you just have a desire to Surf big waves go for it. If you think you can make a name for yourself and get paid to Surf big waves at 26 you are a little late for that. Just keep that in mind. Who knows maybe you do have the skills and balls to get peoples attention.

 01/22/2018 10:57 AM
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Plan B

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Very good post from artz!

 01/22/2018 12:07 PM
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SurfCaster

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If you want to become an underground charger, you need to move to the North Shore. The closest FL has ever had to an underground charger is probably Todd Morcom, but he transitioned into that role after being a sponsored pro. Running with rocks in the Banana River all summer and then surfing Tres Palmas twice a winter isn't going to cut it...unless that's what you're looking for. Don't mean for that to come across as negative.

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"If I say it's safe to surf this beach, captain, then it's safe to surf this beach!"
 01/22/2018 02:12 PM
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Sparky

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 Bring your money and your balls to the North Shore. I would think cold water breaks would not be a good learning ground.

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