by Kem Nunn. Dogs of Winter, tapping the Source. Dark deep surf fiction. I recommend to all.

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If in doubt, paddle out
Nat Young

Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board

This book is inspiring, it's about the life of Bethany Hamilton.

An oddball:  David C. Flanagan, "Board."  It's the account of a guy from Orkney who took up surfing and resumed skateboarding as he approached age 40.  

Thanks for mentioning all of these books. Im looking forward to reading all of these new reads. once finished, illl definetly be commenting back on this thread

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the ocean is my medication

What about Eddie would go?

Barbarian days was excellent and he did as great a job of explaining the feeling and experience of surfing in away a non surfer could appreciate as well as anyone could. 

On a wave was mediocre at absolute best. The big finish if I recall from reading many years ago was him cutting off a "kook" and finally feeling like he arrived and had a place in the lineup and "tribe" if that tell you anything. 

Here's another good one, though not strickly about surfing:

"The Wave -- In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean" by Susan Casey. It's got a lot of science plus perspective from big wave surfers.

I'm reading The Battle for Paradise right now. About an eco battle for the wave and the waters that surround it. Since we were in Pavones in 1994, and oblivious to what was going on around us, these books area always a fun read.

I've got "The Battle for Paradise" but haven't gotten around to reading.  It's a serious book.  

Also showed up lately (bargain from a retailer), "Australia's Century of Surf:  How a big island at the bottom of the world became the greatest surfing nation on earth" by Tim Baker.  Quite a collection of photos.  

empire in waves by scott laderman. 

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sneedeker