plus some interesting shots

hope it hasn't been posted here already

enjoy

https://youtu.be/ElAJbhkH2lU

Cool footage - Thanks for posting!

The wide angle lens on these cameras are great for inside the tube shots, but do no justice to macking Mavericks. The bail out and board getting sucked over at 3:55 was pretty cool I have to admit.

Fellow old people: When does stuff like this go from being 'Awesome and exciting and something that you'd consider doing' to just being 'Scary and something only insane people would do.'

Because I can remember when I'd be in the first group, but I'm definitely in the second group now.

For some people, it doesn't change.  Look at the list of Titans and compare with your age to see who you consider to be "old people".  Even when they have more to lose, like family, a comfy life, etc., the drive remains the same.

Also, I don't believe you just consider surfing a place like Mavericks... it's a cold, sharky, rocky, heaving ledge that only breaks on significant deep water swell.  This is something you know you're going to do well in advance and train for it accordingly, assuming you have the appropriate level of skill and ability to begin with.  

All things being relative, with all the surf travel I've been doing recently I've discovered the more I put myself in situations with "waves of consequence" I realize what I'm capable of doing and what I can handle in terms of studying, paddling, duck diving, riding, bailing on, and surviving, which shapes my motivation in terms of the type of waves and conditions I want to surf.  

As a result, my surfing has improved more in the last two years than the rest of my life combined, but I've also been humbled at least a handful of times by the Pacific Ocean, both on the West Coast and North Shore.  I used them as learning experiences to get better, since I'm still very motivated to continue surfing "real waves", specifically what I consider to be "perfect waves" that are in the category of hollow longer period stuff even though I'm not hunting anything too "big".

For me, Mavericks is not on my list but it's one of my favorite waves to watch and I have complete respect for that wave and those who surf it.

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"Don't count the days, make the days count." -Ali
#rydyrstrong