It's my second year out here and finally I've grown a pair big enough to hang with the chargers. It's not the size of the wave that's hard to surf, it's trying to paddle out without dying in the impact zone. This weekend I will remember forever.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/...ets/72157648156155314/

Yea .... the ol 100 duck dive OB paddle out is a realllllll treat!

Close friend of mine was there for that swell and then caught the red eye to Maui .... yep, he has a tough life.

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"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.

Those are some beefy looking waves! I know I would never make it out. There is no channel or anything?

No channel, but if you're lucky enough to catch a rip current out it's actually not a bad paddle out. I saw two guys paddle out 100 yards apart. One made it right out and the other gave up after 20 minutes of paddling. He got out, walked down a bit, then got sucked right out. The only problem with getting sucked right out is when you get out there and realize you probably shouldn't be out there. Getting back in without catching a wave is the tough part

nice... i was just looking at the cam and swell is PUMPING out there right now 

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"Don't count the days, make the days count." -Ali
#rydyrstrong

Beautiful waves!

 

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Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean

Barrel of the day........

Not going to lie I would have totally barrel dodged that beast

http://www.surfline.com/surf-n...eek-matt-lopez_122275/

Edited: 01/26/2015 at 12:54 PM by c-rad

Those pictures are amazing. However, taking a picture of a wave like that is like recording a gunshot and replaying it. No picture could convey how cold and heavy that wave is up close or how hard it is to drop in, make your bottom turn, etc. I am impressed, or should I say very impressed, with those pics.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Awesome Chris!

Not on my best day would I have paddled out in that.  Those are great pictures and notice that board tombstoning in the lip of that wave, that doesn't look good.

V Nice man. That water looks amazing.

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https://www.instagram.com/dj_kaye_/

William Finnegan would be impressed.  Clean whoppers.

Nice!! Thanks for posting!

How cold is the water...I noticed some are sans booties?

 

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Surfing is my passion...obsesssion... addiction! Can't imagine life without it!

That ain't no joke...

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Who needs a better life?

55ish, but it's El Nino this year. Pretty sure it's normally hovering around 50 this time of year, but I'm only working with 2 seasons of data so who knows 4/3, 5mm booties, 3mm hoodie and it's cozy

Edited: 01/26/2015 at 08:51 PM by c-rad

Looks like Half Moon Bay is 57 or 58 (NOAA).  Surfline is saying south Ocean Beach was air 58, water 54-56.  And recommending a 3/2?

They have a beautiful video loop at (north) Ocean Beach, waves being caught, and recommending 4/3.   

killer pix, and thanks for posting. that is one crazy wave. when you are there - try the pt. reyes cheese, it's not bad, also.

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Water dissolving...and water removing
There is water at the bottom of the ocean

"its not the size of the wave" he says

That wave looks heavy as f@#$! and cold! Nice shots!  Are these your shots or are you in them?  What board you like for those conditions? 

Hats off.  Takes some gusto to surf those waves  Be interested to hear which board you like best considering I see mini guns and shortboards in the pics.

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If you want to hit a home run, you have to swing the bat.

Thanks for the pics c(b)-rad!

I'm proud to say I've been denied at that location

(in much smaller conditions!)

and lived to tell the tale.

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add a signature since I'm here in profile anyway

The paddle out to the lineup at North Beach at Pt Reyes is not nearly as far ... but the impact zone there makes OB look like a walk in the park! Not to mention that it has serious problem with men in gray suits.


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"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.