Every bit of double overhead plus. Wind was offshore and great until about 10 am. Even before that, mostly closeouts. I had to climb my leash in a literal breathless panic for what are the worst hold downs of my life. I am amazed that my leash held, I am happy to be alive, happy my board is in one piece and humbled by a wave I probably should not have even tried to surf. I rode a 7'4 Bonzer that I checked for buckles after every paddle back to the lineup. Saw two guys break boards.

Once the wind changed, I was stuck out there trying to figure out how to even make back in. THe wind closed out the wave even more an it was like a 100 ton car crusher jacking up and then dropping in a way that really made you pull back, if you could. Sketchy does not even begin to describe the monster wave out there today. I am beaten, bloodied and rag dolled. I had a total of four waves where I dropped in on the rail, pulled the rail and got as far as I could until the close out section dropped the no vacancy sign with a vengeance.

I want tomorrow to be smaller with offshores and I don't want to have climb my leash with the knowledge that if the string or leash fails, my friends will be planning a paddle out for me. Crazy day. I am beat.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Ouch

only thing happened to me was getting sucked through the inlet over an hour after tide was supposed to change to outgoing. Underestimated the push from wave action delaying the tide. Scenic route under the bridge before scrambling to rocks hah saw it happpen to 7 or so other dudes

Glad you're ok JB. I'm stuck in the office for 1 more day, then I'm gone, gone, gone!

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Specializing in sarcasm and condescending rhetoric since 1971.

I picked today and blew it.

Straight west at 15 by 8:00 am tomorrow.


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I was right.

damn.  I too have been stuck where you were when the sets jacked with a full tide and you couldn't easily get into it with the wind and it was mainly closeouts.  Took me almost an hour to actually get in.  two guys broke boards next to me just to make me that much more uncomfortable.  That's when I was in good shape.

!!!

Glad you made it in finally!!!

but you know...i'm just saying...if you would have called..i would have had pics and video of it and you would be on Utubed for 15 min of "Holy Toledo that's some shit!!!"

just saying...

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BurrysBreak

Inflation caused The BIG BANG...look it up!

What I am seeing is southwest sunrise to 0830, then quickly shifting northwest which is bad for south central Brevard.

Hope for the best, plan for the worst.

Inlet itself has a natural tidal delay - something along the lines of 2 1/4 hours. Did you take that into account? But yeah, you can never trust the tide alone with a storm surge. At least it pushed you in, not out too far ... Outgoing surge can be quite dangerous. That happens when a fast moving storm like a hurricane has passed by and all that water pushed into river starts flowing back out.

Hate it when that happens. It isn't fun. Glad you and your board made it intact.

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Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean

You have some balls amigo!
That's the thickest lip south of Pump House.
I got a beat down by Ophelia there that reset my entire surfing philosophy.

Yeah buddy! Go big, or go home. 

You'll look back on this day and be happy you did what you did.  It's puts everything else (surfing wise) in perspective. 

Should've driven just a bit further south to Delay and you would've been in a dreamland hehe...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf7Rpz-fdQw

next Nor’easter = road trip 

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"Don't count the days, make the days count." -Ali
#rydyrstrong

nice!! ^^

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf7Rpz-fdQw

sick waves, and tons of people dropping in on each other lol

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https://www.instagram.com/dj_kaye_/

 

sadly because most sfl breaks only break in one takeoff spot instead of multiple peaks the massive crowds have zero etiquette.  It’s horribly frustrating 

Delray Beach breaks really good on a big swell like this.

Perfect shape.

Wow!!!

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Who needs a better life?

Johnnyboy, great write up. I've had some near death experiences there as well as use to surf there a lot in the 80s and always undergunned. I surfed there one time, think it was christmas 89 and it was so freakin' big. Its a dangerous place to surf cause it is an easy deceiving paddle out near the jetty. Then you get out there and when it is maxed out you just can't wait to drift out of it and into a softer place to paddle in. Of course, the waves I caught were all time. But, it is a real struggle.

And, its funny seeing those surfers in Delray wearing fullsuits when we have been skinning it up here in brevard for the past month. OMG its 78 degrees. LOL

Saw a Jupiter guy at lunch and he surfed Delray and said it was all time but that he caught three waves and all three times he got dropped in on. That's really frustrating on a good day. It's flat out dangerous on a day like today.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

I surfed 5 miles North of Delray and it looks like it was more than double that size.

The funniest part of the day was seeing our very own surfing weatherman James weiland walking up the path after the wind went onshore. We passed and he gave a polite what's up. "You and the wind". Me and my buddy got a good laugh at that.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Solid head high today. The swell gift that keeps on giving.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

And only a few out

I have a fin cut on my ankle, I'm sunburnt, I wore the skin of the top of middle toes on the wax, I'm sore everywhere and and I can't stop eating. What a swell.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.