I surfed 16th St. on the incoming tide and despite the wind and the chop it was surprisingly fun especially about an hour and a half before high tide and it started holding up before it got too deep. Before that, it was 70% hugging the peak and milking the wave and 30% short walls with 2 or 3 turns at best. As the tide filled in, the ratio flipped and the walls got longer. The bait was not too bad although the foam smelled like Mullet. I rode my last wave to within 10 feet of the Beach and hopped up in about 10 inches of water and was shocked to have a 5-6 foot shark bust out of the water moving fast about 20 inches from my leg. If the wave had gone out, he would have been high and dry. Four rapid steps got me on dry sand and out of all the shorepound shells Irma left us with my heart beating fast. I'll be happy when the bait run is over!

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"All my greatest Ideas were stolen by the Ancients" - Unknown Egyptian Scribe - 2500 B.C.

Edited: 10/11/2017 at 02:22 PM by Hat-n-Shades

ha ha ha ya scared the poor shark, glad you're ok

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Surf Hard Live Long. Peace Out

I love it when people ask if you ever see sharks when you surf. Sometimes.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

I was surfing alone so feeling more vulnerable (that's a funny mind game, of course) especially with the smell of fish and some bait pods. I'd been waiting for a fin to pop up during the session and had one dolphin give me a little scare until he came up again. At the moment I scared the shark, I was more worried about breaking the center fin box I'd just repaired on the bottom than seeing THE GRAY FIN!

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"All my greatest Ideas were stolen by the Ancients" - Unknown Egyptian Scribe - 2500 B.C.