Every bit of double overhead plus. Wind was offshore and great until about 10 am. Even before that, mostly closeouts. I had to climb my leash in a literal breathless panic for what are the worst hold downs of my life. I am amazed that my leash held, I am happy to be alive, happy my board is in one piece and humbled by a wave I probably should not have even tried to surf. I rode a 7'4 Bonzer that I checked for buckles after every paddle back to the lineup. Saw two guys break boards.

Once the wind changed, I was stuck out there trying to figure out how to even make back in. THe wind closed out the wave even more an it was like a 100 ton car crusher jacking up and then dropping in a way that really made you pull back, if you could. Sketchy does not even begin to describe the monster wave out there today. I am beaten, bloodied and rag dolled. I had a total of four waves where I dropped in on the rail, pulled the rail and got as far as I could until the close out section dropped the no vacancy sign with a vengeance.

I want tomorrow to be smaller with offshores and I don't want to have climb my leash with the knowledge that if the string or leash fails, my friends will be planning a paddle out for me. Crazy day. I am beat.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.